RX7 FC mods

[Blue Supra]

im not interested in an engine swap though although the thought of a V8 RX7 intrigues me thanks for the idea however.

[eyebrows]

one thing megotmea7 forgot to say (i learnt this from him ne way) was depending on the size of the port can affect its reliability. a massive periphrial port would only last a very short time but u would be able to haul arse like theres no tomorrow but for ur perposes i think a small to medium would be good (correct me if im wrong)

[megotmea7]

one thing megotmea7 forgot to say (i learnt this from him ne way) was depending on the size of the port can affect its reliability. a massive periphrial port would only last a very short time but u would be able to haul arse like theres no tomorrow but for ur perposes i think a small to medium would be good (correct me if im wrong)

very correct, i hadent mentioned it as he hadnt asked any questions about the reliability side of things

[Blue Supra]

Originally Posted by megotmea7

very correct, i hadent mentioned it as he hadnt asked any questions about the reliability side of things

yea i definitly want something thatll not die within two weeks.

[megotmea7]

yea i definitly want something thatll not die within two weeks.

then stay away from bridge ports, j-ports, periphrial ports, and large street ports. for your application unless the engine is in need of a rebuild you really shouldt worry about porting, upgrading the exhaust with a decent size(2.25-2.5 inch mabe) turbo back exhaust and an airbox mod/intake would set you up a pounds of boost safely as well as let your turbo spin freely.

keep the seals well maintained

basicaly the only thing you can do is not overheat it(will cause water seals to become brittle and leak and can exess heat can lead to housing warpage (needless to say it isnt good... i should know ) a good way to prevent warped housings, broken water seals and general heat problems is check all radiator hoses regularly(hot running rotaries can cook the hoses and cause them to fail preaturely), buy a larger all aluminum radiator, keep coolant toped off, do a 5-10 minuter light load-off boost warmup before any heavy lugging is done to the engine(your best bet is to let the motor warm up every time you start the car), and buy a more accurate aftermarket coolant temp guage and STOP the car everytime it starts to overheat. a clogged/bad cat can explain alot of heating problems(mostly cats are cloged on RX-7's due to a rich a:f mixture if possible get rid of the cat altogether and run a strait mid-pipe, emmisions permiting)

and basicaly the only thing that will kill your apex seals is detonation (aka pinging, knocking, pre-ignition, etc.) to prevent knocking just give the car fuel, rotaries love jfuel and if you dont give them enough for tha amount of air your pushing in they'll knock and you'll have red hot iron shards shooting thru your turbo's turbine section(if you cant figure thats not good for your motor OR your turbo i suggest you not buy a rotary power'd car ) if you start getting into serious performance (i.e. upgrading your turbo or raising your boost pressure too much) i suggest you buy either a stand-alone or piggy back fuel computer(and have someone that knows what their doing tune it, of learn yourself but remember one wrong calculation and it could be the end for your motor but it'll give you an excuse for a nice port job ) and upgraded injectors, fuel pump, and a regulator depending on your level of tune.

before you start thinking about getting too crazy think about this, what are the emission laws in your area? how old are you? do you honestly thing you can handle a high powered car safely? are you willing(and able financialy) to deal with a possible blown motor(its ALWAYS a possibility)? do you know what you are doign enough to do it yourself or are you going to take it to a shop to do it? think about it reasonally, rotaries are difficult cars to maintain esp. when you start to modify them, the LOVE gas when you start making power. not trying to turn you off the idea, just seeing if yur ready for such a commitent, im tired of seeing RX-7's junked because the owners didnt know what they were getting into and didnt know what they were doing...

[Blue Supra]

Originally Posted by megotmea7

before you start thinking about getting too crazy think about this, what are the emission laws in your area? how old are you? do you honestly thing you can handle a high powered car safely? are you willing(and able financialy) to deal with a possible blown motor(its ALWAYS a possibility)? do you know what you are doign enough to do it yourself or are you going to take it to a shop to do it? think about it reasonally, rotaries are difficult cars to maintain esp. when you start to modify them, the LOVE gas when you start making power. not trying to turn you off the idea, just seeing if yur ready for such a commitent, im tired of seeing RX-7's junked because the owners didnt know what they were getting into and didnt know what they were doing...

well in answer to all of the above, i have no idea about emission laws(but can find out easily enough), im 19, do hill climb time trials and low level rally stuff regularly, i work full time and if the motor blows ill either
a) get a new one
b) sell and just get a nu car
im going to get a shop to do EVERYTHING because i cant do much more mechanically then service my own car. and when i get this going i wont even do that myself. and thats why im asking questions now so i know what im getting into and know whats best to have done and how to do it.

this thread will probably die before christmas (when im aiming to get the car) but when i do get it ill revive it and keep posting whats happening. thanks for all your advice and comments so far guys.

[gtrjazz]

They won the 24 hour with a four rotor engine and ruled the Bathhurst with a triple. Most of the fast rotorys in England run a big Single turbo 420 ish bhp I can post a better quater mile time but would be hard pressed to keep with one on a track .

[megotmea7]

the RX-7's that won the bathhurst were stock motored RX-7's i belive (read: 2 rotors)

[fpv_gtho]

yeah they were stock alright, the won the 12 hour race between 92 and 94 didnt they? either way, their success prompted mazda to release a special edition bathurst RX-7. funny thing is, the bloke down the road from my house used to have a bathurst edition MR-2

[88 10 AE rx7]

Originally Posted by megotmea7

ill get to you in a sec i have a few wrongs to right


most gains are dependednt on the model of the 13b, the type of port job, and the supporting mods.


how wrong are you, theres plenty you can do to a rotary. if you mean theres nothing you can do internally your still wrong. intake and exhaust port street porting, bridge porting, j-porting, periphrial porting, ceramic seals, carbon seals, 3mm apex regrinds, hardened stationary gears, lightened rotors(more on this in a sec), etc.


why is it you wont find any parts? id hardly call a nitrous system "to the extreme". a monster bridge port, 3mm ceramic apex seals, T04R, 4" dump pipe, air inlet thru the headlight, 1200ccm injectors, and a 200shot of the fuzzy stuff would be an "extreme"


ohh god...


the first ture statment yet, turboing will allow the greatest gains for the least amount of money assuming you buy a TurboII


getting A lightened rotor is pointless (god i hope your not talking about brake rotors ) all moderrns rotary powered cars are 2 rotor motors so you'd need 2 lightened rotors but you wouldnt buy them just to get them, their more of a "while im in there type of thing" as ALL internal mods to a rotary require a full engine tear down. but most internal mods are un nessesary as rotarys poer producing potential are only limited by the amount of air the ports can flow up to a certain point(13b-rew's making 800-1000hp+ on a basicaly stock engine(all stock parts) exept for a nice big port job). on 13b-t's (FC turbo engines) the dowels start giving way at about 350-400hp tho, nothing you can really do about it, if your looking for high horsepower you'd better look into a 13b-rew swap.(Can be a pain in the ass, almost not worth it unless your building a race car)


explain to me son, what prevents nitrous from making power on rotaries? lmao


depends what you mean by "2 systems" as there are 2 stage systems. and what does nitrous have to do with messing up your timing? again lmao

THANK YOU! i was about to start slapping people. 400whp is not hard to find out of a rotary. life span might not be super long but done right is drivable. the rotary is an amazing engine that you can do a ton of work to.

[88 10 AE rx7]

Originally Posted by gtrjazz

They won the 24 hour with a four rotor engine and ruled the Bathhurst with a triple. Most of the fast rotorys in England run a big Single turbo 420 ish bhp I can post a better quater mile time but would be hard pressed to keep with one on a track .

the rx7 isnt much of a quarter mile car, its a track car. with the right driver i have yet to see something of equal value even touch one

[Blue Supra]

the FB Rx7s are common at our race track and some of them just destroy the competition. mind you some of them have 30k+ in them

[Fritz]

RX7 - FC3S is prob more of a drift car then a track/quarter mile.
RX7 - FD3S is what ur looking for if ur going for quarter mile run's.

And with a VeilSide kit, it's really a kick ass looking car.
the 13B with dual turbo is a nice....nice.....nice....nice... car
i think it's VeilSide that has a FD with a 18 bar turbo, the chap from "High octane" was scared after a small joy ride in it.

Enigne swap: i belive that a 20B or a Boxer 4 would be good enough for the FD.

for the FC, i would think the RB26DETT, or the Lexus V8 would be the ultimate.

one thing:
since u like the RX7-FC3S.....u havent watched "Initial D" by any chance ?? :P

seroulsy: i'm actually considering the FC myself, since Skyline cost's something like 8000 euro's to insure here....and about 10-15000 euros to register....

**edited some ...errors...

[85RX7]

Shopping list.

First of oll you need the car.....RX7 FC3S

Engine mods: Minimum of a streetport, I'd go for a bridgeport if you want a large power increace and still want to be able to drive it on the road withoug getting 5-10 miles per gallon.

Porting website: http://home.iprimus.com.au/bluey3/portsPage/ports.htm

Port matched manifolds
Extractors
Custom high flow exhaust system (a must for any performing rotary)
Lightened rotors
Good Fuel pump/injectors
New leads and spark plugs
High flow filter

Driveline:New, stronger gearbox, lightened flywheel, heavy duty clutch kit.

New tires can also take a second off your 1/4mile time, good investment


Either a turbo or a supercharger would greatly benifit the power output of the engine, estecially when ported. If you decide to run mid-high boost you should really invest in new apex seals.

This is over $5000, but you can basically mix and match what you want. go see a rotary specialist, get him thinking that you want to get some work done, steal his ideas and run can't beat free info!!!

Once you get an FC, take the engine out, take it apart, get to know it, replace anything that needs replacing(apex seals, plugs etc...), and rebuild it. Try and do as much work as you can on it because if you ge some one else to fit parts, half of your $5000 will be spent on labour alone.

Good luck on getting an FC, you should join WWW.RX7CLUB.COM and ask them questions, there is a FC specific forum there and thousands of people would have been in the same situation as you.

[85RX7]

Originally Posted by eyebrows

one thing megotmea7 forgot to say (i learnt this from him ne way) was depending on the size of the port can affect its reliability. a massive periphrial port would only last a very short time but u would be able to haul arse like theres no tomorrow but for ur perposes i think a small to medium would be good (correct me if im wrong)

You are right, although i's like to add somthing about peripheral porting...

PP's, although they do eat through the gas due to the port size, can be fairly reliable, the housing are basically drilled through the side, and peripheral ports are shoved in. Depending on the thickness of the P port walls, the life of your engine will be comprimised. Thick walls=smaller port=less power and longer engine life.

Also with a PP, you will find it hard to drive on the street. It will idle around 2000rpm. Though I've heard somewhere that PP's can be driven on the street easily...i'd like to know more about that...

Not saying that your wrong in any way, just adding to it.