New Race car - the story begins.

[Blue Supra]

yeh its tricky finding stuff to fit ay.

i have munroe front shocks, koni springs, pedders shocks in the back with... get this... BMW 7 series eibach springs... they fit, dont ask me how i found this out as we just sorta went, "well they look about right" and we put em in and theyre brilliant.

Have you done all your bushes with urethane ones and upgraded your sway bars? Seriously, best handling improvement ever for the money they cost.

[SlickHolden]

I got Monroe GT rear and Pedders Sports Ryders front.. I still haven't come to the conclusion which is best.. My brother at the moment is using Kings springs in his BA and he hates them, He says they sqweek and moan in the rear and there to soft.
But for my next suspension in this or another car i been looking around at a semi race road set-up, So i like to listen to what everyone uses and how they go with there set-ups.

Bluey have you tried Nolathane bushes??

[charged]

Originally Posted by Blue Supra

yeh its tricky finding stuff to fit ay.

i have munroe front shocks, koni springs, pedders shocks in the back with... get this... BMW 7 series eibach springs... they fit, dont ask me how i found this out as we just sorta went, "well they look about right" and we put em in and theyre brilliant.

Have you done all your bushes with urethane ones and upgraded your sway bars? Seriously, best handling improvement ever for the money they cost.

I was originally going to fit Golf 1 front struts, but they worked out to be too short in the shock body and my spring would have been too long. Im also going to fit sigma lower control arms as they give me more camber adjustment. Nearly have the seat mounts fittted today just need some 10mm angle and their ready to weld.

The car may be featured in RACE magazine nephew writes for the magazine and wants to do a Bang for your Buck type story. Have to sse what happens.

[fpv_gtho]

Originally Posted by SlickHolden

I got Monroe GT rear and Pedders Sports Ryders front.. I still haven't come to the conclusion which is best.. My brother at the moment is using Kings springs in his BA and he hates them, He says they sqweek and moan in the rear and there to soft.
But for my next suspension in this or another car i been looking around at a semi race road set-up, So i like to listen to what everyone uses and how they go with there set-ups.

You wanna be careful that you dont ruin the balance of the car. Thats the trouble with not doing the same to the front as you do to the rear. Changing the ride height not equally, like how alot of people will take 15mm out the front of a ute, but 3x that in the rear, that all has an effect. For a track car you can at least factor all this in and try and get as many adjustable pieces as possible. A road car, whilst you can still go with everything adjustable, theres no real point blasting around on the streets, and having to stick your head under the car or whatever every 5 minutes cause youve made the handling worse.

[SlickHolden]

If i had it i might only have 2 set-ups. High and low. I probley wouldn't change the ride height to be honest even if it was adjustable. With the UCP boys in the car it still didn't bottom out and that was a good thing showed me the ride height was very good. Like now sometimes it's hard the ride with bad road but it's very nice on smooth roads or roads that aren't pot holed.
But i'm to silly to work out all the adjustments anyway

[fpv_gtho]

The damping and spring rates probably arent setup then for how you like it.

Have you checked all your bump stops as well?

[SlickHolden]

Not sure?? I had the springs fitted about 10 months ago? And we fitted the rear shocks ourselves.. But the spring guys stuffed me around all day so i don't even know what psi they are other then the guy said the rear was heavy duty?. The rear stays down better then the front but the rear can sway or feel to light at high cornering speeds.

It hates them small little bumps in the road that send a vibration through the car when it hits them hard it feels like it's going to lift. But it takes ups and downs in the road very well just hates them little sharp bumps. And we have plenty of them around here thanks to trucks and bad road works, They think here best way to repair a road is fill in holes and cover them over the top with tar, It's got for grip very grippy but it does crack and warp some and the cracks and pot holes get bigger if not attended to more often.

Like tonight i was cruising on the freeway @ 100km/h when this sign comes up about road works in the area, I was thinking we might need to slow down but no full speed ahead is fine it's in the middle and the have barriers that block of the lanes, Well anyway next thing i see the road in front of me it lifts up about 2" no wider then a hose then comes down and when i hit it @ 100km/h it went up, And the car behind me lifted i could see the lights flash high. I was thinking what a shocker for a freeway to have this there it was like they laid tar in a single line across the road, That wasn't it the road was full of things like this for 1000 meters.

[charged]

Finished bolting up the engine, changing oil,filter etc at my mates engine dyno, he's going to run it in the morning and make sure its running ok. Then its test and tune session tommorow afternoon. We are trying 3 sets of exhausts on it the first set are mine, the next my brothers and a mates TRD extractors which he wont sell to me. Hopefully will have some decent HP figures, hoping for 190+. Getting the car back from paint on friday, the engine bay, cabin and boot have been done. Then fit the engine on Sunday hopefully.

The intake trumpets have come up a treat, looks like a air box will be needed as the trumpets have minimal clearance between them, plus the foam socks suck up about 5% of hp

[SlickHolden]

Looks great mate.

[charged]

She made 216hp non adjusted which will between 190-200hp adjusted, its saw 9500rpm on the dyno, fark me it screams. Its way over throttled in the mid range, it was making the same power at half throttle position as it was a 100%. VVTI only made minimal difference in the mid and we turned it off after 6500 rpm. The combustion chambers run very hot the plugs are nearly white. The only hassle we had was starting the engine, it had trouble starting on the (non clutch type) dyno with no flywheel due to the high comp and dyno load it would turn over erratically. What this would do is the Autronic ECU tries to anticipate the timing for the next cylinder and spark timing is right off either far too advanced or retarded etc. Once we worked out timing needed to be retarded fully it fired quite reliably. The only other hassle was the last dyno power run, it started to miss at 6500 rpm and we shut it down straight away pulled the plugs and no 2 plug electrode had been burnt away .We compression tested it and the cylinder was 165psi so thats within specs We have to run it tommorrow to see if any damage has been done. It looks like the ecu may be faulty, will find out tommorrow hopefully the piston has survived

[SlickHolden]

So that's around 160-165kw.
Is it risky to run on the dyno? I'm thinking just to see what power i have now to see if the little mods have done anything, But i have always been chicken cause of it's age km's.

[charged]

The engine guy ran it on the dyno this morning and she's a bit chuffy, probably burnt exhaust valve. Looks like the ecu module was faulty and it has a intermittent fault on the duty cycle on injector 2. When we first ran the engine it started missing on 2 and we changed the injector, now it looks like it wasnt the problem. We are heading up there tommorrow to pull the head and see the damage, my bet is burnt piston and valves, so I have organised a new set of hypertec pistons for it. Dyno runs are certainly risky. Before we went for the high rpm power runs we pulled the plugs and they were all the same colour but running fairly hot. So we thought the problem was fixed. We drilled pyro's in each exhaust primary to make sure exhaust temp stayed even, for all the runs it was sweet. As Adam said if the inj duty cycle shuts down for 2 secs it can be all over. The problem was basically not caused by tuning but by ecu fault

Dyno runs can be dangerous if the tuner has no idea, Adam the guy doing my engine said this is the first problem he's had for 7 years, the only time a engine went bang with him is when the ecu was faulty from factory similar to mine

The engine did make good power but the torque curve is very flat and peaks at 6500, but then the hp will take over, will definetley have to keep it about 5500 minimum to get the best out of the motor.

On a positive note I passed my cams theory exam today, only need the medical and observed liscense test and I have my cams liscense + $700

[Blue Supra]

yeh the cams Lvl 3 isnt cheap.

hey! you can import cars from japan for racing when you get that!

so err... wanna help a brother out?

[charged]

Mate actually just bought an ex hillclimb Pulsar GTIR, its got coilovers all round, bigger brakes, striped interior, rollcage. he's going to run it at the next AMRS round at Adelaide, he only paid 6000 for it. He going to get a decent ecu for it and decent GT 28 disco/potatoe turbo and see what mumbo it makes. I told him it will only make broken gears in the box

[2ndclasscitizen]

Originally Posted by charged

The engine did make good power but the torque curve is very flat and peaks at 6500, but then the hp will take over, will definetley have to keep it about 5500 minimum to get the best out of the motor.

Short gearing FTW,

Originally Posted by charged

Mate actually just bought an ex hillclimb Pulsar GTIR, its got coilovers all round, bigger brakes, striped interior, rollcage. he's going to run it at the next AMRS round at Adelaide, he only paid 6000 for it. He going to get a decent ecu for it and decent GT 28 disco/potatoe turbo and see what mumbo it makes. I told him it will only make broken gears in the box

Racing GTi-R?!! That'd be farking fast!!