painting tamiya models

[Giggs_WRC206]

Hey I've been building tamiya 1/24 scale models for about a year, still a beginner though. I've been using the testor's acrylic paints, but have been very dissatisfied with some of the paints, specifically gold leaf and silver/aluminum colors. I cant think of another way of describing them other than the fact that they're 'unsaturated solutions,' i.e. a liquid base with glittery silver (or gold) colored particles. anyway its frustrating to paint objects with this paint because the solid glittery particles end up wherever gravity or a meniscus pulls them, instead of giving the entire surface the same look.

Sorry if this is confusing, its hard for me to describe. anyway i'm just looking for more quality paints, do they exist? what would ya'll suggest i use instead? I was considering just spray painting the parts that need to be silver.

Also 1 other thing, I've always wanted to paint the cracks on the doors black, like they show on their finished models. Is this the job of a paint pen (If so, brand recommendations?). I'm just looking to paint fine lines of semi-gloss black paint. Thanks a ton!

[henk4]

Hey I've been building tamiya 1/24 scale models for about a year, still a beginner though. I've been using the testor's acrylic paints, but have been very dissatisfied with some of the paints, specifically gold leaf and silver/aluminum colors. I cant think of another way of describing them other than the fact that they're 'unsaturated solutions,' i.e. a liquid base with glittery silver (or gold) colored particles. anyway its frustrating to paint objects with this paint because the solid glittery particles end up wherever gravity or a meniscus pulls them, instead of giving the entire surface the same look.

Sorry if this is confusing, its hard for me to describe. anyway i'm just looking for more quality paints, do they exist? what would ya'll suggest i use instead? I was considering just spray painting the parts that need to be silver.

Also 1 other thing, I've always wanted to paint the cracks on the doors black, like they show on their finished models. Is this the job of a paint pen (If so, brand recommendations?). I'm just looking to paint fine lines of semi-gloss black paint. Thanks a ton!


Handpainting metallic paints, especially acrylics will hardly work. Spray cans will provide a perfect solution, but make sure to seal it with a gloss clear coat for optimal shine.

Water Diluted black acrylic paint can be used for door cracks, if it is thin enough you can just let it run into the groove smoothly.

[Giggs_WRC206]

Handpainting metallic paints, especially acrylics will hardly work. Spray cans will provide a perfect solution, but make sure to seal it with a gloss clear coat for optimal shine.

Water Diluted black acrylic paint can be used for door cracks, if it is thin enough you can just let it run into the groove smoothly.

Thanks for the response, just a few questions tho. What exactly do you mean by "seal it with a gloss clear coat," and how do you go about this? I'm not totally familiar with the lingo. also, great suggestion about the cracks in the doors, never thought of that. Do I have to dilute the paint tho, and if so, how much so? How would you approach filling the cracks of the doors with paint without touching the surrounding paint job? is a paint marker a worse way to approach it? Remember i'm still a beginner, so try and dumb your explanations down a lot for me :) Thanks!

[henk4]

Thanks for the response, just a few questions tho. What exactly do you mean by "seal it with a gloss clear coat," and how do you go about this? I'm not totally familiar with the lingo. also, great suggestion about the cracks in the doors, never thought of that. Do I have to dilute the paint tho, and if so, how much so? How would you approach filling the cracks of the doors with paint without touching the surrounding paint job? is a paint marker a worse way to approach it? Remember i'm still a beginner, so try and dumb your explanations down a lot for me :) Thanks!

Sealing with clear cote simply means that you spray a clear cote varnish from a spray can (Tamiya TS13). When you fill the cracks you may have to experiment a little bit first, just let it flow in and let gravity do its job. If you let if flow it will just follow the cracks without overflowing the finished paint work. When things do go wrong though have a wet cloth ready to remove everything at once, which will not be a problem when the paint is sufficiently diluted. (that's why you should use acrylics)

[Manik]

i really wanna do a big model. I have just been doing the smaller one that don't require much work. when i say smaller i mean the ones that are easier to build. I really wanna do a murcielago like on one of the other threads.

[henk4]

i really wanna do a big model. I have just been doing the smaller one that don't require much work. when i say smaller i mean the ones that are easier to build. I really wanna do a murcielago like on one of the other threads.

There are some really nice and very detailed 1/24 Fujimi models that require a lot of work (there is a Countach, a 288GTO, a Stratos, A BMW 6-coupe, and many versions of the Porsche 356 and 911).

If you want to go for something bigger you might want to find the 1/12 Doyusha kits, such as a Boss Mustang, the Alitalia Stratos, a BMW 3.5 CSL and even the Honda S800 Cabrio.

The pinnacle of F1 models can be found in the 1/12 Tamiya series which consists of many interesting subjects ranging from the Honda V12 from the sixties, many different lotusses and Ferrari to the highly detailed Ferrari 641 and McLaren MP4/8. It is not for nothing that McLaren designer Adrian Newey claims that he learned how F1 works based on his construction of Tamiya kits when he was a boy.

[Matra et Alpine]

The other advantage with 'most" Tamiya models as a next step is although they can sometimes be daunting and look a lot of work because of the number of parts they invariably are LESS work because everything goes together without needing lots of sanding or putty to fil gaps.

[Giggs_WRC206]

SO I have another painting question. Sometimes my acrylic paints will solidify, what precautions should I take to prevent this? IS it a problem that can be remedied? Thanks, ya'll are super helpful!

also how much do you dilute the acrylic paint to do that trick you were talking about?

[henk4]

SO I have another painting question. Sometimes my acrylic paints will solidify, what precautions should I take to prevent this? IS it a problem that can be remedied? Thanks, ya'll are super helpful!

also how much do you dilute the acrylic paint to do that trick you were talking about?

Get some Tamiya Acrylic thinner, but the best precaution is to regularly use it, in order words: build models :)

Do some trial and error with the dilution, 50 water-50 paint would probably be OK. It should be smoothly running. I always make a new mixture every time I need to. A small teaspoon with paint and then some water. Transparant film containers are my favourite storage medium.

[Giggs_WRC206]

Thanks again for the reply, it helps a lot. another question, IS there an easier way to paint really detailed parts of the car's body, like, for example, painting the window frame without getting the paint on the finished paint job. And, follow up question, should i apply a clear coat before or after i attempt to detail, say, the window frame.

Also on a different topic, when painting the outlines for the windows black, the masking tape allows some of the paint to seep into where it should be masking. Am i just being gimpy, or does this happen to everyone else? also, is there an easier way to remove this masking tape without damaging what your've painted? any additional tips that u think would help please dont hesitate to say.

[henk4]

Thanks again for the reply, it helps a lot. another question, IS there an easier way to paint really detailed parts of the car's body, like, for example, painting the window frame without getting the paint on the finished paint job. And, follow up question, should i apply a clear coat before or after i attempt to detail, say, the window frame.

Also on a different topic, when painting the outlines for the windows black, the masking tape allows some of the paint to seep into where it should be masking. Am i just being gimpy, or does this happen to everyone else? also, is there an easier way to remove this masking tape without damaging what your've painted? any additional tips that u think would help please dont hesitate to say.

Window frames are a pain i.the.a.. What I mostly do now is use bare metal foil, which comes in chrome, flat aluminium and black. The first two are easy to deal with, but the the black one is somehow less sticky, and needs to be applied carefully because when it bends there tends to appear is silvery spot, which then again needs to be painted slightly.

If I apply a clear coat I do it on fully painted body, but before painting the final details, for instance if the window frame are supposed to be semi gloss black, applying a clear will make them look too glossy.

Masking tape should be removed when the paint is not yet fully hardened, you may gently touch it with your fingers without leaving traces, but underneath the paint should better be a little bit softer, so that it won't break when you remove the tape. Paint will inevitably seep underneath the tape, capillary action will be difficult to stop. What I found the best way to remove it is using a toothpick, with is hard enough to stand some pressure but sof enough to prevent the windows from being scratched.

[Giggs_WRC206]

1.) I've heard you all talking about polishing the paint jobs of your models, whats the best way to go about doing this?
2.) Should I apply a clear coat before or after I apply decals?

Thanks!

[henk4]

1.) I've heard you all talking about polishing the paint jobs of your models, whats the best way to go about doing this?
2.) Should I apply a clear coat before or after I apply decals?

Thanks!

Polishing goes in three steps, you have to wet sand the paint with very fine paper ("2000"), it will first look like your paint has been damaged, but the next step is using a polishing compound (Tamiya produces a good one, in the USA you might be able to find a thing called "the last detail" (if I remember correctly) which you then use to rub in the paint againt. The final stage is to use a soft cloth and to treat the part previously rubbed with the compound. You will hopefully then see a gloos,shiny and even surface, whereby the dreaded "orange-peel" look of the paint has disappeared completely. The most difficult part is the sanding where you have to be careful not to go "through the paint".

You can apply the gloss coat after the decals, but you have to be sure that these are fully adhering everywhere, a loose part will harden and break after the coat has been applied.

[Dino Scuderia]

1.) I've heard you all talking about polishing the paint jobs of your models, whats the best way to go about doing this?
2.) Should I apply a clear coat before or after I apply decals?

Thanks!

Here's a great thread of tutorials including paint polishing.

Something I always point out is polishing is just another name for leveling. So on your first polishing step it's important to completely level the paint otherwise your just going to have shiny orange peel.


Tutorials (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=215864)

[Manik]

There are some really nice and very detailed 1/24 Fujimi models that require a lot of work (there is a Countach, a 288GTO, a Stratos, A BMW 6-coupe, and many versions of the Porsche 356 and 911).

If you want to go for something bigger you might want to find the 1/12 Doyusha kits, such as a Boss Mustang, the Alitalia Stratos, a BMW 3.5 CSL and even the Honda S800 Cabrio.

The pinnacle of F1 models can be found in the 1/12 Tamiya series which consists of many interesting subjects ranging from the Honda V12 from the sixties, many different lotusses and Ferrari to the highly detailed Ferrari 641 and McLaren MP4/8. It is not for nothing that McLaren designer Adrian Newey claims that he learned how F1 works based on his construction of Tamiya kits when he was a boy.

what do you think are more difficult to make 1/24's or 1/12's?

[Matra et Alpine]

what do you think are more difficult to make 1/24's or 1/12's?
I find 1/24 more difficult due to the smaller size of items and the extra effort to add realism. SOME kits have photo-etch parts available which relieves some of that - and the contents of your wallet :)

More parts in 1/12 but that means less scratch-build which can be fun but more difficult.

[Dino Scuderia]

what do you think are more difficult to make 1/24's or 1/12's?

I think it depends entirely on the model, as with every kit no matter what size...some are easier than others.

Just because a model is larger doesn't mean it has more parts, and more parts doesn't always equal more realism.

The main thing is getting building experience, learn some techniques that work for you then apply them to every model build. Along the way you will learn how to overcome difficlties in the buiilding process.

[henk4]

At my age and eye conditions complicated 1/43 scale kits (such as Tameo F1 kits) are probably the most difficult to do. There is also a hell of difference between a well engineered 1/12 kit like the Tamiya's or a "random set of parts" that you get to make a Protar 1/12. Turning the latter into a proper model is however sometimes very rewarding.

[Matra et Alpine]

At my age and eye conditions complicated 1/43 scale kits (such as Tameo F1 kits) are probably the most difficult to do.
Yeah, I can't really work in 1/43. Never happy with the quality of my own work. Hands not steady enough and eyesight getting worse :( Old age you know ?

Anywa, I wish I coudl for these French model companies kits.
NOW, some of them need a LOT of work and some go together sweetly. But to build a complete Le Mans winners grid :) I can but dream :)
http://www.mafma.com/liste.php?Marque=All&Fabricant=All&Echelle=All&Type=All&rechercher=1&motsclef=promotion_KIT_LE_MANS

[henk4]

LeMans Miniatures produces quite a few of those in 1/24, but they are mostly curbside.

[Matra et Alpine]

LeMans Miniatures produces quite a few of those in 1/24, but they are mostly curbside.
I've got the Alpine and Matra ones :) Fisher do a nice 1/24

[henk4]

I've got the Alpine and Matra ones :) Fisher do a nice 1/24

Are they worth the money? I never ventured out into the world of resin kits.

[Matra et Alpine]

Lots of work, filler, shaping and trimming to fit.
The Fisher kits are VERY good. He's a really nice guy to work with too. VERY helpful. We arranged a bulk-purchase for the club and got a good discount :)

The BIG plus is you get the more unusual models in the more unusal scales.
The DOWNSIDE, is you don't want "old stock" I broke tyres when assembling them on hubs before I realised that the resin goes brittle :(.
Now I "warm" things up in an attempt to ease them and am a LOT more careful with second-hand kits.

Check out the NEW 1/24th model from PROFIL ......
http://www.mafma.com/images/p24035.jpg
99Euros a bit steep, IF I get a chance to look at the quality I think I'll add this one :) 380 Euros built !! So if anyone woudl like a built one I can do it for 300 Euros :)

[henk4]

a ghost Matra, but I would never buy a complete model, not even from you, the fun is (or should be) in the building process.

[Matra et Alpine]

aw damn, it ALWASY happens every time I go to the MAFMA site.

Another 1:24 resin kits..... must find credit card :( ADMN the kids will ahve to go hungry again :)
http://www.mafma.com/images/ren24-6d.jpg

PS: Agreed on the building. I've bought some pre-built kits and while they are pretty to look at I dont' "enjoy" them as much as those that I built !!!

[woodstock827]

for the masking tape paint leaking question... what do u mean using toothpick? use the toothpick to press the tape harder? or to press the paint out?? or to clean the paint?
thx!

[henk4]

for the masking tape paint leaking question... what do u mean using toothpick? use the toothpick to press the tape harder? or to press the paint out?? or to clean the paint?
thx!

both, you can use a toothpick to make the tape stick at places where you cannot properly use your fingers, and you use the toothpick for gently removing excess paint, without risking to scratch the underlying paintwork (a metal tool will invariably give scratches)

[Dino Scuderia]

for the masking tape paint leaking question... what do u mean using toothpick? use the toothpick to press the tape harder? or to press the paint out?? or to clean the paint?
thx!

The best way to seal your masking is to put on a light coat of clear after you mask and before your next color. But as henks says, use you fingernail or a toothpick to run across all your edges to get them down.

One good quality of Tamiya masking tape is it is semi transparent so you can better tell if you have the edges down properly.

[henk4]

One good quality of Tamiya masking tape is it is semi transparent so you can better tell if you have the edges down properly.

your eyes must be better than mine :D