New to kits - need some advice

[stevo]

As i own a mitsubishi evo lancer I have bought the tamiya 1:24 plastic kit of the car.

I used to do alot of modelling as a child but that was many many years ago!

Perhaps someone could give me some help/tips?

Firstly the kit is very detailed and want to do the best job i can with the painting. Whats the best way to paint the pieces? If i leave them on the "stick" it will leave a mark when i cut them off. If i cut them off first i somehow have to hold them to paint?? Whats best?

Is it better to spray the body? The smaller bits i will brush paint.

What glue is best?

Thanks in advance for any tips.

Steve :)

[Sweeney921]

i used to do some modeling, and i cut it off the stick, sanded it down, then painted while it was just sitting on a solid surface. it only works if you have a really, really fine paintbrush, so it doesn't slide around.

it'll be a really nice model when its finished!

[henk4]

Small parts you can paint by hand, cut them from the sprue, remove any plastic left over from the cut. The body should be painted with a spray, assuming that you have no airbrush buy a Tamiya spray can in the desired color (one thin layer first and then a couple of "wet" layers) Don't forget to use a primer (also Tamiya) first. In order to get a really nice finish have to sand down the paint (very fine wet paper) and then use a polish to get the shine. Please feel free to ask for more tips if you need them. The EVO comes out nicely, I built it in dark blue, and also a rallye version as well.

[KnifeEdge_2K1]

just curious, but what evo are u talkin bout here?
this has already been said b4 but its highly recommended to spray the body as brush painting WILL leave streaks, with spray cans or airbrush there is this great tutorial I know of that is highly effective.

http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm

the guy's name is alex and i think he's a genius, im modelling the 360 modena im building after his with a few differences, im sad to say that its not nearly as good as his is but its far better than my earlier attempts

[byronleehk]

For smaller parts, before cutting it off the tree I usually see if that part can be painted (with a brush) or not after it has been gluded on, if yes, then I'll paint it after gluded for maximum coverage. If, let say, that part will be hard to reach by the paint brush then I'll paint it first then cut it loose off the parts tree after it's dry.

For glue, I've always used liquid ones, not tube glue. I use Tamiya (comes in both green and yellow caps, green is thinner and yellow is thicker) and Gunze Sangyo, both from Japan and Tenax-7R, which is from the U.S.A.

Hope this helps and it'll be nice if you can post some pics after it's been finished :)

[henk4]

For smaller parts, before cutting it off the tree I usually see if that part can be painted (with a brush) or not after it has been gluded on, if yes, then I'll paint it after gluded for maximum coverage. If, let say, that part will be hard to reach by the paint brush then I'll paint it first then cut it loose off the parts tree after it's dry.

For glue, I've always used liquid ones, not tube glue. I use Tamiya (comes in both green and yellow caps, green is thinner and yellow is thicker) and Gunze Sangyo, both from Japan and Tenax-7R, which is from the U.S.A.

Hope this helps and it'll be nice if you can post some pics after it's been finished :)

I support that, larger "small" parts, (dash, seats etc) you should cut off first, smaller parts paint first and then paint the cut when still visible after fixing the part. I use Revell liquid glue, which comes with a long metal tube for easy application. However for clear parts and small chromed parts I use white glue, which does not "eat" into the plastic and excess glue can be removed after drying without any trace. It does not give a tight bond, but it is good enough to keep the small parts on their spot.

[stevo]

Cheers for all the above some good advice there.

Been over to model shop today and bought a bag full of tamiya paints - think i will need to buy some more kits after this to make it cost effective ;)

Bought a bottle of tamiya liquid poly which the dude recomended.

I got a tin of red spray for the body bits - the rest i will brush paint.

The one i got was the evo5 - item no. 24203 - the decal sheet on its own looks a mammoth task!

Are there any links like that above (very good by the way) of a stage by stage build?

I will take some pics dont worry.

Steve.

[henk4]

Don't forget to let the red paint harden for at least three days before any sanding or polishing.
Decals are not so complicated, as you already indicated you bought enough paint for more models, so you may also want to buy some decal setting solutions, Microsol and Microset, which you can use to "help" the decal to get properly in its place. Remove the excess water first after applying and then use a hairdryer to further soften the decal. It will then set properly, also along the edges. To protect the decals you can apply one or two layer of clear cote (Tamiya TS13) but that is not absolutely necessary.

[Tha_killa69]

I can give u tips on how to add a carbon fibre look, but practise before attempting it.

Get some kind of a mesh with small squares...there should be one included in your kit. Color one row Gun Metal diagonally, and the next row Flat Black. Repeat that until you have covered the entire surface of which your painting. If you want a little gloss, use Tamiya paints.