RX7 FC mods

[Blue Supra]

Despite my name being "Blue Supra" i have a strong liking to RX7s, especially the FC, which is why im acquiring one shortly, however my knowledge of rotaries is limited, but enough to understand what im buying, what my real question to you all is what is the best way to modify the engine, i know details are important to you all so what i would eventually like to end up with (until i can afford my supra :D ) is an RX7 that can run quickly down a quarter strip (12 secs would be ideal) but will also handle cruisin on a highway happily. i have about 5k to spend on mods at the moment but as budgets usually do with cars, im expecting it could go over that.

any ideas, suggestions, abuse welcome.

[fpv_gtho]

apparently the 13B benefits greatly from a port polish etc.

[Sweeney921]

Theres only one real problem with tuning a rotary engine, you can't mod it. But you can get a performance air filter, exhaust, etc. If you want to go to the extreme (i.e. nitrous oxide), you wont be finding any parts.

[Quiggs]

You're gonna need NOS. The big ones. Two of 'em. </Fast and Furious>

Really, turbo'ing is your best bet. Good luck. Don't blow it up. ;)

[johnnynumfiv]

You can get a lightened rotor, but they are very expensive.

[Sweeney921]

You're gonna need NOS. The big ones. Two of 'em. </Fast and Furious>

Really, turbo'ing is your best bet. Good luck. Don't blow it up. ;)
NOS doesnt make anything for rotary engines, and anyway, you can't put 2 nitrous oxide systems in one engine, that would screw up the timing horribly.

[megotmea7]

any ideas, suggestions, abuse welcome.
ill get to you in a sec i have a few wrongs to right ;)


apparently the 13B benefits greatly from a port polish etc.
most gains are dependednt on the model of the 13b, the type of port job, and the supporting mods.


Theres only one real problem with tuning a rotary engine, you can't mod it.
how wrong are you, theres plenty you can do to a rotary. if you mean theres nothing you can do internally your still wrong. intake and exhaust port street porting, bridge porting, j-porting, periphrial porting, ceramic seals, carbon seals, 3mm apex regrinds, hardened stationary gears, lightened rotors(more on this in a sec), etc.


If you want to go to the extreme (i.e. nitrous oxide), you wont be finding any parts.
why is it you wont find any parts? id hardly call a nitrous system "to the extreme". a monster bridge port, 3mm ceramic apex seals, T04R, 4" dump pipe, air inlet thru the headlight, 1200ccm injectors, and a 200shot of the fuzzy stuff would be an "extreme" ;)


You're gonna need NOS. The big ones. Two of 'em. </Fast and Furious>

ohh god... :rolleyes:


Really, turbo'ing is your best bet. Good luck. Don't blow it up.
the first ture statment yet, turboing will allow the greatest gains for the least amount of money assuming you buy a TurboII


You can get a lightened rotor, but they are very expensive.
getting A lightened rotor is pointless (god i hope your not talking about brake rotors :rolleyes:) all moderrns rotary powered cars are 2 rotor motors so you'd need 2 lightened rotors but you wouldnt buy them just to get them, their more of a "while im in there type of thing" as ALL internal mods to a rotary require a full engine tear down. but most internal mods are un nessesary as rotarys poer producing potential are only limited by the amount of air the ports can flow up to a certain point(13b-rew's making 800-1000hp+ on a basicaly stock engine(all stock parts) exept for a nice big port job). on 13b-t's (FC turbo engines) the dowels start giving way at about 350-400hp tho, nothing you can really do about it, if your looking for high horsepower you'd better look into a 13b-rew swap.(Can be a pain in the ass, almost not worth it unless your building a race car)


NOS doesnt make anything for rotary engines
explain to me son, what prevents nitrous from making power on rotaries? lmao


you can't put 2 nitrous oxide systems in one engine, that would screw up the timing horribly.
depends what you mean by "2 systems" as there are 2 stage systems. and what does nitrous have to do with messing up your timing? again lmao

[megotmea7]

any ideas, suggestions, abuse welcome.
first off, you have $5000 total to spend on the cost of the car and mods or does that just cover mods? if its to cover the cost of the car a turboII might suck up all your money. what are you looking for (turboII, gxl, etc.) and you just want it as a everyday street car with some power?

[Blue Supra]

Yeh im goin the turboII model. probably a 89 or 90ish. not pre 89 anyway, 5k is for the mods. im lookin at between 7500 and 10k for the car itself, itll come with an exhaust system but probably not much else. so yeh justsomething thatll pull a quick time but is still everyday use driveable (does that make sense :confused: )

[Ferrari Tifosi]

If you modify the engine a good bit, remember to ugrade the apex seals. The apex seals are one of the worst problems on the 13B or on most rotaries.

[megotmea7]

its not the seals that are the problem its impropper maintenece/modification of the motor that can lead to seal failure

[Blue Supra]

okay, so what im getting is a port n polish, bigger ports for more air flow, if a want to get really serious an engine swap (that probably wont happen) and keep the seals well maintained. this thing comes turbo but can i put a bigger one in it? what kind?

[Blue Supra]

oh and nitrous is out of the question, its not legal in Australia as far as i know. :(

[Egg Nog]

okay, so what im getting is a port n polish, bigger ports for more air flow, if a want to get really serious an engine swap (that probably wont happen) and keep the seals well maintained. this thing comes turbo but can i put a bigger one in it? what kind?

If you're going to look at an engine swap, you might want to go to a company that will do a V8 conversion. It would probably be the best way to go, as far as power and efficiency goes. I'm not too sure if there any places in your area that do them though.

Any Aussies here know of one?

[fpv_gtho]

I think if you were looking at a V8 swap, the most logical V8 would be a 4L Lexus V8 from a GS400 or LS400/Toyota Soarer. Theres a heavy vehicle repair workshop and a pretty dodge auto electricion around where i live that my dads gotten to swap an engine in both his Landcruiser and Cressida though

[Blue Supra]

im not interested in an engine swap though :o although the thought of a V8 RX7 intrigues me :p thanks for the idea however.

[eyebrows]

one thing megotmea7 forgot to say (i learnt this from him ne way) was depending on the size of the port can affect its reliability. a massive periphrial port would only last a very short time but u would be able to haul arse like theres no tomorrow :D but for ur perposes i think a small to medium would be good (correct me if im wrong)

[megotmea7]

one thing megotmea7 forgot to say (i learnt this from him ne way) was depending on the size of the port can affect its reliability. a massive periphrial port would only last a very short time but u would be able to haul arse like theres no tomorrow but for ur perposes i think a small to medium would be good (correct me if im wrong)
very correct, i hadent mentioned it as he hadnt asked any questions about the reliability side of things :)

[Blue Supra]

very correct, i hadent mentioned it as he hadnt asked any questions about the reliability side of things :)

yea i definitly want something thatll not die within two weeks. :p

[megotmea7]

yea i definitly want something thatll not die within two weeks.
then stay away from bridge ports, j-ports, periphrial ports, and large street ports. for your application unless the engine is in need of a rebuild you really shouldt worry about porting, upgrading the exhaust with a decent size(2.25-2.5 inch mabe) turbo back exhaust and an airbox mod/intake would set you up a pounds of boost safely as well as let your turbo spin freely.


keep the seals well maintained
basicaly the only thing you can do is not overheat it(will cause water seals to become brittle and leak and can exess heat can lead to housing warpage (needless to say it isnt good... i should know :() a good way to prevent warped housings, broken water seals and general heat problems is check all radiator hoses regularly(hot running rotaries can cook the hoses and cause them to fail preaturely), buy a larger all aluminum radiator, keep coolant toped off, do a 5-10 minuter light load-off boost warmup before any heavy lugging is done to the engine(your best bet is to let the motor warm up every time you start the car), and buy a more accurate aftermarket coolant temp guage and STOP the car everytime it starts to overheat. a clogged/bad cat can explain alot of heating problems(mostly cats are cloged on RX-7's due to a rich a:f mixture if possible get rid of the cat altogether and run a strait mid-pipe, emmisions permiting)

and basicaly the only thing that will kill your apex seals is detonation (aka pinging, knocking, pre-ignition, etc.) to prevent knocking just give the car fuel, rotaries love jfuel and if you dont give them enough for tha amount of air your pushing in they'll knock and you'll have red hot iron shards shooting thru your turbo's turbine section(if you cant figure thats not good for your motor OR your turbo i suggest you not buy a rotary power'd car ;)) if you start getting into serious performance (i.e. upgrading your turbo or raising your boost pressure too much) i suggest you buy either a stand-alone or piggy back fuel computer(and have someone that knows what their doing tune it, of learn yourself but remember one wrong calculation and it could be the end for your motor :( but it'll give you an excuse for a nice port job ;)) and upgraded injectors, fuel pump, and a regulator depending on your level of tune.

before you start thinking about getting too crazy think about this, what are the emission laws in your area? how old are you? do you honestly thing you can handle a high powered car safely? are you willing(and able financialy) to deal with a possible blown motor(its ALWAYS a possibility)? do you know what you are doign enough to do it yourself or are you going to take it to a shop to do it? think about it reasonally, rotaries are difficult cars to maintain esp. when you start to modify them, the LOVE gas when you start making power. not trying to turn you off the idea, just seeing if yur ready for such a commitent, im tired of seeing RX-7's junked because the owners didnt know what they were getting into and didnt know what they were doing...

[Blue Supra]

before you start thinking about getting too crazy think about this, what are the emission laws in your area? how old are you? do you honestly thing you can handle a high powered car safely? are you willing(and able financialy) to deal with a possible blown motor(its ALWAYS a possibility)? do you know what you are doign enough to do it yourself or are you going to take it to a shop to do it? think about it reasonally, rotaries are difficult cars to maintain esp. when you start to modify them, the LOVE gas when you start making power. not trying to turn you off the idea, just seeing if yur ready for such a commitent, im tired of seeing RX-7's junked because the owners didnt know what they were getting into and didnt know what they were doing...

well in answer to all of the above, i have no idea about emission laws(but can find out easily enough), im 19, do hill climb time trials and low level rally stuff regularly, i work full time and if the motor blows ill either
a) get a new one
b) sell and just get a nu car
im going to get a shop to do EVERYTHING because i cant do much more mechanically then service my own car. and when i get this going i wont even do that myself. and thats why im asking questions now so i know what im getting into and know whats best to have done and how to do it. :)

this thread will probably die before christmas (when im aiming to get the car) but when i do get it ill revive it and keep posting whats happening. thanks for all your advice and comments so far guys. :)

[gtrjazz]

They won the 24 hour with a four rotor engine and ruled the Bathhurst with a triple. Most of the fast rotorys in England run a big Single turbo 420 ish bhp I can post a better quater mile time but would be hard pressed to keep with one on a track .

[megotmea7]

the RX-7's that won the bathhurst were stock motored RX-7's i belive (read: 2 rotors)

[fpv_gtho]

yeah they were stock alright, the won the 12 hour race between 92 and 94 didnt they? either way, their success prompted mazda to release a special edition bathurst RX-7. funny thing is, the bloke down the road from my house used to have a bathurst edition MR-2

[88 10 AE rx7]

ill get to you in a sec i have a few wrongs to right ;)


most gains are dependednt on the model of the 13b, the type of port job, and the supporting mods.


how wrong are you, theres plenty you can do to a rotary. if you mean theres nothing you can do internally your still wrong. intake and exhaust port street porting, bridge porting, j-porting, periphrial porting, ceramic seals, carbon seals, 3mm apex regrinds, hardened stationary gears, lightened rotors(more on this in a sec), etc.


why is it you wont find any parts? id hardly call a nitrous system "to the extreme". a monster bridge port, 3mm ceramic apex seals, T04R, 4" dump pipe, air inlet thru the headlight, 1200ccm injectors, and a 200shot of the fuzzy stuff would be an "extreme" ;)


ohh god... :rolleyes:


the first ture statment yet, turboing will allow the greatest gains for the least amount of money assuming you buy a TurboII


getting A lightened rotor is pointless (god i hope your not talking about brake rotors :rolleyes:) all moderrns rotary powered cars are 2 rotor motors so you'd need 2 lightened rotors but you wouldnt buy them just to get them, their more of a "while im in there type of thing" as ALL internal mods to a rotary require a full engine tear down. but most internal mods are un nessesary as rotarys poer producing potential are only limited by the amount of air the ports can flow up to a certain point(13b-rew's making 800-1000hp+ on a basicaly stock engine(all stock parts) exept for a nice big port job). on 13b-t's (FC turbo engines) the dowels start giving way at about 350-400hp tho, nothing you can really do about it, if your looking for high horsepower you'd better look into a 13b-rew swap.(Can be a pain in the ass, almost not worth it unless your building a race car)


explain to me son, what prevents nitrous from making power on rotaries? lmao


depends what you mean by "2 systems" as there are 2 stage systems. and what does nitrous have to do with messing up your timing? again lmao


THANK YOU! i was about to start slapping people. 400whp is not hard to find out of a rotary. life span might not be super long but done right is drivable. the rotary is an amazing engine that you can do a ton of work to.

[88 10 AE rx7]

They won the 24 hour with a four rotor engine and ruled the Bathhurst with a triple. Most of the fast rotorys in England run a big Single turbo 420 ish bhp I can post a better quater mile time but would be hard pressed to keep with one on a track .


the rx7 isnt much of a quarter mile car, its a track car. with the right driver i have yet to see something of equal value even touch one

[Blue Supra]

the FB Rx7s are common at our race track and some of them just destroy the competition. mind you some of them have 30k+ in them :eek:

[Fritz]

RX7 - FC3S is prob more of a drift car then a track/quarter mile.
RX7 - FD3S is what ur looking for if ur going for quarter mile run's.

And with a VeilSide kit, it's really a kick ass looking car.
the 13B with dual turbo is a nice....nice.....nice....nice... car
i think it's VeilSide that has a FD with a 18 bar turbo, the chap from "High octane" was scared after a small joy ride in it.

Enigne swap: i belive that a 20B or a Boxer 4 would be good enough for the FD.

for the FC, i would think the RB26DETT, or the Lexus V8 would be the ultimate.

one thing:
since u like the RX7-FC3S.....u havent watched "Initial D" by any chance ?? :P

seroulsy: i'm actually considering the FC myself, since Skyline cost's something like 8000 euro's to insure here....and about 10-15000 euros to register....

**edited some ...errors...

[85RX7]

Shopping list. :D

First of oll you need the car.....RX7 FC3S

Engine mods: Minimum of a streetport, I'd go for a bridgeport if you want a large power increace and still want to be able to drive it on the road withoug getting 5-10 miles per gallon.

Porting website: http://home.iprimus.com.au/bluey3/portsPage/ports.htm

Port matched manifolds
Extractors
Custom high flow exhaust system (a must for any performing rotary)
Lightened rotors
Good Fuel pump/injectors
New leads and spark plugs
High flow filter

Driveline:New, stronger gearbox, lightened flywheel, heavy duty clutch kit.

New tires can also take a second off your 1/4mile time, good investment


Either a turbo or a supercharger would greatly benifit the power output of the engine, estecially when ported. If you decide to run mid-high boost you should really invest in new apex seals.

This is over $5000, but you can basically mix and match what you want. go see a rotary specialist, get him thinking that you want to get some work done, steal his ideas and run :p can't beat free info!!!

Once you get an FC, take the engine out, take it apart, get to know it, replace anything that needs replacing(apex seals, plugs etc...), and rebuild it. Try and do as much work as you can on it because if you ge some one else to fit parts, half of your $5000 will be spent on labour alone.

Good luck on getting an FC, you should join WWW.RX7CLUB.COM and ask them questions, there is a FC specific forum there and thousands of people would have been in the same situation as you.

[85RX7]

one thing megotmea7 forgot to say (i learnt this from him ne way) was depending on the size of the port can affect its reliability. a massive periphrial port would only last a very short time but u would be able to haul arse like theres no tomorrow :D but for ur perposes i think a small to medium would be good (correct me if im wrong)

You are right, although i's like to add somthing about peripheral porting...

PP's, although they do eat through the gas due to the port size, can be fairly reliable, the housing are basically drilled through the side, and peripheral ports are shoved in. Depending on the thickness of the P port walls, the life of your engine will be comprimised. Thick walls=smaller port=less power and longer engine life.

Also with a PP, you will find it hard to drive on the street. It will idle around 2000rpm. Though I've heard somewhere that PP's can be driven on the street easily...i'd like to know more about that...

Not saying that your wrong in any way, just adding to it.

[megotmea7]

RX7 - FC3S is prob more of a drift car then a track/quarter mile.
RX7 - FD3S is what ur looking for if ur going for quarter mile run's.
the FC is actually a better drag car as it is cheaper and its suspention is reletivly easily modified to a ford live axle. i is also a pretty good handling car thos and would be just as at home on a road coarse. the FD is actually a better hadling car, its actually just about as close as you can come to a real road race car as far as japanese sports carse come, it handles, brakes, accelerates as good or better than almost every car you can think of within reason. i would make an FD a road coarse car, but they can be modified to do good on the track also that is un questonable.


Enigne swap: i belive that a 20B or a Boxer 4 would be good enough for the FD.
a 20b IS a good swap but when you take cost into account ($10k to get one in there and running properly) it really isnt worth it, sure you get a rotary with some torque but for less money you could have a V8 under the hood and more torque than you'd ever need. and the boxer 4? talk about a downgrade if your thinking about a 4 cyl may as well keep the 13b-rew more power and it will be just as reliable at a given power level


Lightened rotors
not nessesary, unless you have money to blow or are trying to extract the absolut maimum performance out of a rotary(under 500hp isnt maximum performance ;))


New, stronger gearbox
will not be nessesary for the mods you listed


If you decide to run mid-high boost you should really invest in new apex seals.
actually the stock seals are just about the best you can get, the cheapest upgrades will put you pretty light in the pockets(personal experience), $1200 for a 2 peice set of 6 and all they will do is reduce wear on your housing at higher seal sping pressures, for a street application the stock seals and spris will seal fine and hold up to any amount of boost you can thro at them, the real killer of apex seals is detonation and not even the best set of seals will save ou motor if you ping it one good time. and i wouldnt worry about spending too much money on making a 1b-t fast, after about 350hp the dowels start to fail and you ave to swap in a 13b-rew to make anymore power reliably


PP's, although they do eat through the gas due to the port size, can be fairly reliable, the housing are basically drilled through the side, and peripheral ports are shoved in. Depending on the thickness of the P port walls, the life of your engine will be comprimised. Thick walls=smaller port=less power and longer engine life.

i would not recomend a PP for the street, hell a bridgeport is pushing it as far as reliability goes. apex seal life is compramised with a PP and the compound they use to fill in the original side housig ports is not as durable as the rest of the housing, and water seal can be compramised with a bridgeport. a street port is called that for a reason.


Also with a PP, you will find it hard to drive on the street. It will idle around 2000rpm. Though I've heard somewhere that PP's can be driven on the street easily...i'd like to know more about that...

unacceptable, it sounds mean granted but the idle alone should detour you, plus the added wear on your clutch from trying to tool around town like that...

[Mattg]

My dad and I race an 83 RX-7
It looks somewhat like this
http://www.m2performance.com/Custom8.jpg

[charged]

You can get 350hp very reliably from a 13b Bp without to many hassles,come over to Adelaide and I can hook you up with some people in the know.
BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP :D

[megotmea7]

yes, 350hp i about as far as i would take a 13b-t, much over that and you start testing dowel strength, if you want big power go 13b-rew ;)
as far as a brfge port, yes their awesome, and yes they make power, but there are less reliable than say, a nice street port. if you want a motor that lasts mabe 20k or less then go for it

[charged]

These guys I know make up their own special apex seals,re-dowell etc,he's even got a 13b rotor with Motec ems on his skiboat,one of their customer cars is a genuine Rx8 Series 6 SP Bathurst edition,DROOL :)

[fpv_gtho]

you mean RX7 bathurst edition

[Fritz]

what is needed to make the 13B do 350HP, and how often should the engine get a overhaul???

[megotmea7]

These guys I know make up their own special apex seals,re-dowell etc,he's even got a 13b rotor with Motec ems on his skiboat,one of their customer cars is a genuine Rx8 Series 6 SP Bathurst edition,DROOL :)
yea, Illinatti makes a great set of ceramic apex seals(whats in my new motor), their smooth as glass(better housing wear) supposedly stronger than the iron stockers and when they do go some say they shatter into smaller peices instead of turning into red hot iron shards flying thru your turbo and shredding it possibly minimizing turbo damage. then theres carbon seals which are harder than shit and dig grooves into your housing, their alot stronger. the thing is regardless of how strong your seals are if you ping your motor a few good times their going, and as far as power handling and running strength, they may be stronger but no one has ran so much boost to blow their iron seals(without detonation) so it in a way is a waste of money. then theres the 3mm seal "upgrade" which is just a way for engine builders to re-use old rotors. they mill out the seal valley and any imperfections in the 2mm groove and put larger seals in. if the milling process isnt perfect your looking at another rebuild soon after the new seals. and 3mm seals will shatter just as fast as 2mm seals. they also need higher tension springs to maintain low RPM sealing which may increase housing wear as well. basically the best seals you can get are the stock iron 2mm ones, their really cheap compared to the alternatives and they will do the same job just as well. and 3mm seals are just a fancy way to get screw'd while under the impression of getting an upgrade. i wne twith a set of ceramic seals as they added benifit of their strength is they can be used thru several rebuilds unlike the iron stockers and will also wear less on the housing further reducing rebuild cost :)

[megotmea7]

and ive heard of the reworked dowels, i have mixed feelings, yes it saves you the trouble of a 13b-wrew swap and the expense but at the same time after the dowels are teken care of the the 13b-t housings weaknesses start to show at higher power levels so i think its a better investment to just run a 13b-rew if your looking for power, or an LS1 ;)

[megotmea7]

what is needed to make the 13B do 350HP, and how often should the engine get a overhaul???
upgraded fuel system, a port job would help greatly, a decent turbo setup, the basics(exhaust/intake), some sort of engine management or fuel control, id go with a decent knock sensor to protect your motor and turbo. after that you'd make about 350hp, then you'd need a clutch to handle the power, suspention, brakes, etc. to be upgraded. BUT you could get 350hp easily out of a RX-7 with a simple $2800 conversion kit, $3000 worth fo LS1 and T56, and some do it yourself labor to do the swap, then you'd have around 350hp at the crank and 500hp a few hundered dollars away ;)

[charged]

you mean RX7 bathurst editionI thought the sp are the ones they raced at Bathurst,this things still got the dry break filling system through the rear perspex cover.I would sell my children for it any offers :p

[fpv_gtho]

You said it was an RX-8 before though :p

[charged]

You said it was an RX-8 before though :pFingers too fat for the key board,its definetly a RX 7

[Falcon500]

Yeh im goin the turboII model. probably a 89 or 90ish. not pre 89 anyway, 5k is for the mods. im lookin at between 7500 and 10k for the car itself, itll come with an exhaust system but probably not much else. so yeh justsomething thatll pull a quick time but is still everyday use driveable (does that make sense :confused: )
Good luck for that price...nobloody joke Fast and the furious imports was asking $13,000 for a series4 and your looking at a more desirable series 5 here....A series 5 has been at the top of my list for a good long time and i have been doing alot of reserch into them even private sales for ordinary models see prices around $13k...if you can find a series 5 for this price here id like to se it :)

And while no master with the cars i intend on getting an 8k loan to bring my limit up to 18k get my mitts on one (ohhh how i want a savanah ((spelling? lol)) and they only have top seats to my knowlage) and with the money left over ill probly only do a few basics and then carry on with more saveing....im after a set of exaust,Cold air intake,pod filter, new ignition, Beffier plug leads and platinum plugs...all simple stuff but im not after no barnstormer yet.

[85RX7]

an 8k loan! The bank wont lent u 8k they?

[Falcon500]

I can see why not...i ONLY manged to save only 10,000 already....

[fpv_gtho]

(ohhh how i want a savanah ((spelling? lol))

Double V i think :p


Well that particular car, Bluey told me a bit about it on MSN after he had a look at it and definately wasnt in A1 condition, one of many reasons he never bought that particular one

[Falcon500]

Ahh fair enough....

[charged]

Whats a Savvanah is it a grey import :confused:

[fpv_gtho]

I always thought it was the convertible model

[Falcon500]

Is it? maybey i got that one wrong then....i was after the morehipo version...obviously i need to do more reserch....but i cant find any good litrature online or at books stores....

[fpv_gtho]

now that i think about it, i probably got it wrong. its probably a safe bet it being a hipo version

im getting everything wrong today :p its also double n, not v

[Falcon500]

Well in Gran tourismo it has more hp to the efini III i think 202 compared to 180 something and its aquite a bit lighter....maybey we need a hand...HINT HINT megatomea :p

[megotmea7]

haha, sorry im a little hung over
what was the question?

[fpv_gtho]

Whats the Savannah model

[whiteballz]

the savannah is the luxo model from my memory.

its just got better seats and softer suspension. (i think)

[Sharpie]

The Savanna is a luxury version and the Efini is the sports model of the entire RX-7 range. The SP was a Australian only race version of the Series-6.

[Falcon500]

So i want an Efini III?

And bythe sounds of it this sp wouldent be terribly common...or affordable :(

[charged]

You got that right,need deep pockets to buy one :(

[Falcon500]

Well im after a road going car anyways the sp sounds fun but impractical for many reasons (ugg insurance if its roadlegal)

[85RX7]

The Savanna is a luxury version and the Efini is the sports model of the entire RX-7 range. The SP was a Australian only race version of the Series-6.

Good, At least you got the spelling right.

EVERYONE, IT IS SPELT SAVANNA. Just wanted 2 cear that up.

[charged]

Well im after a road going car anyways the sp sounds fun but impractical for many reasons (ugg insurance if its roadlegal)Next time I go to Mallala I will try and get a pic and post it on UCP

[Falcon500]

Sounds good charged :D

[JediNinja]

The first order of business is to rebuild ur engine... 3mm apex seals a must... while ur at it, might as well get a port job, Street porting will be good enough cuz it better on fuel, n ur car wont be screaming murder down the street... this will establish a good platform for any further mods you are willing to preform. they have different rebuild stages and the prices may vary... Also the motor oil is very important (in any car obviously) but more so in a rotary... In my opinion Royal Purple is the best for performance engines and rotary engines...

Check out this website, they have a ton of OEM and JDM mazda rx7 parts... plus if u go to "Engines", it shows rebuilds and porting options and prices

MAZDATRIX for Mazda RX7, RX8, Rotary Engine Parts and Accessories (http://www.mazdatrix.com/)

[rx7 fc runner]

Ok, so i have an 88 rx7 with a t70 turbo pushin 400 to the wheels and the only thing i upgraded (internally) was the apex seals and i have never had a problem with it "blowing up" and whoever said that "NOS doesnt make anthing for it" must not know anthing about how nitrous works. I had nitrous on my 99 grand am, nuff said.

[cmcpokey]

what size apex seals do you have? and where do you have your red line set at? 400 isn't really rare on the 13b, but still takes some work.

did you also have a bridge or a street port? havent seen too many FCs over 300 without one of those.

[93rzsupra]

if it was me and i had a turbo rx7.
first put a 3 inch exhaust straight off turbo put a race air filter on it. after market bov. boost controller. then save more and get fuel system (injecters and bigger fuel pump) aftermarket ecu and bigger turbo and fm intercooler. (i would do that all at once to prevent blowing up the engine by running lean and u have to tune aftermarket turbos. maybe a good time to build/streghen engine.)