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Thread: Tutorial; Window Trim Masking

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    nr Edinburgh, Whisky-soaked Scotland
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    27,777
    Quote Originally Posted by henk4
    because if you can master a cheap kit, than you will appreciate the quality of Tami ya and the easiness with which you can put that together.
    good point.

    I was thinking more the lessons learned on how NOT to do it - at least then it's only a few pounds "wasted".
    Quote Originally Posted by Esperante
    Absolutely. But keep an eye out for rare models at the store, ie Fujimi Enthusiast models. If I saw an Enthusiast model i'd buy it and keep it stored for a while, just to have it.
    yeah the growth of a "stash" comes too easily
    "A woman without curves is like a road without bends, you might get to your destination quicker but the ride is boring as hell'

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Milwaukee
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    6,544
    ^Haha I already have a 356 Speedster, R33 GT-R and Europa in my to-do list.

    But, spi-ti-tout, if you are looking for a specific car that you want to model, I would say go for the best calibre model you can find. Otherwise what henk said is very helpful.
    Last edited by Esperante; 08-11-2005 at 11:52 AM.
    TOYNBEE IDEA IN KUBRICK 2001 RESURRECT DEAD ON PLANET JUPITER

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    land of the Desert Extreme Challenge Rally
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matra et Alpine
    two already mentioned in thus thread.

    www.hlj.com and www.hannants.co.uk

    Shame you cant' find a local store. Have you checked everywhere ? When startign otu it's good to find a local store who can dsicuss and advise.

    I generally recommend trying a few really cheap kits to learn and see if you have the basic skills and patience before going for a Tamiya !!
    Yeah, I'm going to go to one of the biggest stores here but even then it'll be highly unlikely that I find the "model car" and EVEN if I do the shop IS expensive and there won't be anyone to help me 'cause it's a big toy store basically

    Dubai is crap when you want the really good stuff, especially when it becomes car-related.

    What would be a good "starting kit" brand? I already know Tamiya and Fujimi are hi-class so any other ones I should try?

    Quote Originally Posted by henk4
    because if you can master a cheap kit, than you will appreciate the quality of Tamiya and the easiness with which you can put that together.
    Quote Originally Posted by Esperante
    Absolutely. But keep an eye out for rare models at the store, ie Fujimi Enthusiast models. If I saw an Enthusiast model i'd buy it and keep it stored for a while, just to have it. But seeing as you're just starting, I wouldn't worry about that just yet.
    How will I find the expensive ones if I can't even find the more basic common ones?
    J/k

    The thing is liek I already mentioned kits here are rare and generally expensive, and I'm getting this one as a gift, otherwise I don't think I'd have one. I'm (and as Pieter knows ) broke and saving ALL my money for my (hopefully) trip to the UK next year (otherwise I've got enough to buy about 2 kits now so plus the gift one that makes it 3)
    And SAYING THAT, the point comes to the fact where it's also highly unlikely that I'll be able to get any furthur kits unless people suddenly start loving me very very much

    Quote Originally Posted by MetA
    good point.

    I was thinking more the lessons learned on how NOT to do it - at least then it's only a few pounds "wasted".
    OR I could keep it as decoration in my house until I come next year

    Quote Originally Posted by Esperante
    Haha I already have a 356 Speedster, R33 GT-R and Europa in my to-do list.
    Lucky b@stard

    Quote Originally Posted by Esperante
    But, spi-ti-tout, if you are looking for a specific car that you want to model, I would say go for the best calibre model you can find. Otherwise what henk said is very helpful.
    Well to be honest I'm not really sure, I really want to build one kit atleast because I really like this building stuff and I visit the Kit Forums often just to see the work, and liek I've already explained this is a lucky one and I don't expect another one too soon. When I wnet onto that first site that Matra linekd me to I saw the 575M abd I remembered Dino's work, it looks fantastic and I wouldn't mind doing one as a first job. But like the others' have already said it's best I go for something cheap at my first attempt and that was a Fujimi kit. Hhmmmmnnn.....

    Any suggestions guys...........?

    Oh and thanks for all the help

  4. #19
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    Allo....

  5. #20
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    Jun 2005
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    Tustin, California
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodstock827
    cool! thx!
    but my paint still always leak under the tape when i use brush..
    would normal masking tape work? may be that's why it leak.... =P i'll try with tamiya tape next time...
    My 100th post If paint leaks under you might as well repaint the section that the leaked paint reached. Just don't use too much paint and try a fine enough brush. In my opinion, brushing is better because you don't need to mask up all the body, but there is a higher chance paint will leak. Normal masking tape works too. If it's hard to tell where the trim is, first trace over with a black sharpie pen, although leaks sometimes come off using a toothpick.

    Sorry if it doesn't really work. This is just advice and I'm just a kid(no expert at this stuff). when I tried this, it worked perfectly(as long as the paint leak isn't too big)

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Arkansas, Conway, not so bad, really.
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    954
    Great to see some useful tips! I'm about to start a decent 300sl model and will definitely use the masking technique. So far I've been a big fan of the tried-and-true "cut half the bristles off the brush and use a razor blade as a backstop" technique that works about half the time.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Albufeira
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    Quote Originally Posted by carsnut View Post
    My 100th post If paint leaks under you might as well repaint the section that the leaked paint reached. Just don't use too much paint and try a fine enough brush. In my opinion, brushing is better because you don't need to mask up all the body, but there is a higher chance paint will leak. Normal masking tape works too. If it's hard to tell where the trim is, first trace over with a black sharpie pen, although leaks sometimes come off using a toothpick.

    Sorry if it doesn't really work. This is just advice and I'm just a kid(no expert at this stuff). when I tried this, it worked perfectly(as long as the paint leak isn't too big)
    I usualy do the same but instead of a toothpick, I do it with the edge of a worn-out x-knife. But it can't be while the paint is still too fresh nor when it's totally dried out (cause then it might detach some of the body paint with it). When it's not sticky but already consistent, like 1 1/2-2 day old paint.

    I usualy don't use masking tape because I prefer to see where the brush is going to instead of discovering later the paint smudged under the edge of the mask tape. I'm nowhere near professional (not even that into kits, I prefer to detail an already "finished" model... because they're more affordable and I think it's cool when you see it in the end and you got a nice result) and I hope to learn more and more as I go
    Powered by passion, driven by knowledge

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    1
    lots of tape, but looked really cool.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    25
    ecxellent job

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    United Arab Emirates
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    try to use the 3M Scotch magic tape

  11. #26
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    Nov 2013
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    2
    wow.! it's amazing car.!

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