paint removal

[Digitor]

I recently sprayed a coat of primer onto my Shelby Series 1. I also, unfortunately, ended up with a nice coat of dust.

What i want to know is, what is the best way to get it off? The two most popular methods seem to be Dot 3/4 brake fluid or oven cleaner. On Automotiveforums i saw a guy who had a huge crack in the body from brake fluid. There are others that reckon oven cleaner makes the body brittle.

I anyone has had good/ bad experiences with either, i'd like to hear about it.
Thanks in advance.

P.S. if this has been discussed elsewhere (i've searched hard) point me to the destination.

[Dino Scuderia]

If you have dust in the primer don't worry about it, just sand it....dirt in the paint is much worse. Figure out where the dust came from and fix that before your final paint coats.

As far as stripping paint you're likely to have no problem with brake fluid or oven cleaner, that crack the guy had is rare. I know guys who have left bodies submerged in brake fluid for weeks with no problems, not that I recommend that.

[Esperante]

I'm having some trouble with Tamiya's metallic paints, most specifically with the Mica Red I just put about 2 coats worth onto the 356. It is suspicously runny and drippy, so, although the coat is even, it'll be darker in some places. The problem with this paint, though, is that it is semi-transparent, so it doesn't exaclty cover itself up. I'm considering stripping the paint and getting a more proven solid colour, but I need some advice first. What would you recommend?

[Digitor]

Thanks Dino!

I thought it would be easier to just get rid of the primer and start fresh rather than sanding. I can also fix the dust problem, i just made a mistake that time.


Hope yours turns out alright Esperante, i'll leave the advice to the pros.

[henk4]

I'm having some trouble with Tamiya's metallic paints, most specifically with the Mica Red I just put about 2 coats worth onto the 356. It is suspicously runny and drippy, so, although the coat is even, it'll be darker in some places. The problem with this paint, though, is that it is semi-transparent, so it doesn't exaclty cover itself up. I'm considering stripping the paint and getting a more proven solid colour, but I need some advice first. What would you recommend?

a large number of very thin coats will give you the best results. A grey primer might also help to reduce the effect of "too thick paint" in some places

[Dino Scuderia]

I'm having some trouble with Tamiya's metallic paints, most specifically with the Mica Red I just put about 2 coats worth onto the 356. It is suspicously runny and drippy, so, although the coat is even, it'll be darker in some places. The problem with this paint, though, is that it is semi-transparent, so it doesn't exaclty cover itself up. I'm considering stripping the paint and getting a more proven solid colour, but I need some advice first. What would you recommend?

A couple things I do...firstly I prepare the surface to be painted by sanding it with 600 or 600 grit paper then I thorughly wash it so the paint I'm spraying on will 'bite' which helps these runny type paints stay in place. When spraying paints I go against conventional rules and spray all wet coats, but with Tamiya's mica's and metallics I back off to medium-light coat. The main thing I do to prevent runs is not use a stationary paint stand, I use a hand held body holder which compresses to the sides of the body from the inside..this way I can more effeciently cover the body with paint and also I can turn the body round and round in my hand til the paint flashes threfor never giving the paint to gather and begin to run, somewhat like a rotisserie action.

Here's the holding device:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=80968

Another tip for mica paints for better, more even coverage and a nice brilliant effect....paint it over Tamiya Silver Leaf or Gold, at the very least I recommend painting over white primer.

[henk4]

Another tip for mica paints for better, more even coverage and a nice brilliant effect....paint it over Tamiya Silver Leaf or Gold, at the very least I recommend painting over white primer.

that is a very good one. I just bought a rattle can of Tamiya Pearl Clear finish, I wonder how that may look over mica paint.

[Dino Scuderia]

that is a very good one. I just bought a rattle can of Tamiya Pearl Clear finish, I wonder how that may look over mica paint.

Haven't tried the Pearl Clear yet but I have friends who have experimented with it to no satisfaction. The product apparently doesn't have good quality pearl in it, and it gives an odd color. Will be interested in your adventures with it.

[Esperante]

A couple things I do...firstly I prepare the surface to be painted by sanding it with 600 or 600 grit paper then I thorughly wash it so the paint I'm spraying on will 'bite' which helps these runny type paints stay in place. When spraying paints I go against conventional rules and spray all wet coats, but with Tamiya's mica's and metallics I back off to medium-light coat. The main thing I do to prevent runs is not use a stationary paint stand, I use a hand held body holder which compresses to the sides of the body from the inside..this way I can more effeciently cover the body with paint and also I can turn the body round and round in my hand til the paint flashes threfor never giving the paint to gather and begin to run, somewhat like a rotisserie action.

Here's the holding device:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=80968

Another tip for mica paints for better, more even coverage and a nice brilliant effect....paint it over Tamiya Silver Leaf or Gold, at the very least I recommend painting over white primer.

I'm quite the Bohemian. So far I've been doing exactly what that holder has been doing, but with my hands.
I've sanded it down, which prevented a lot of drip, and the dripping isn't extreme, (what should be noted is I painted strips of silver over the trimlins, and then masked those lines-I want to get that extra silver painted over, but the transperncy prevents this) but the pigment is very nice at this point. If I put on many more light coats will the a lot of the colour be gone?

Henk-Would spraying primer over the current few coats still work?
On another note, all the bulges created by the dripping has also been sanded out.
As for the silver undercoat-I considered this for a short time, but decided against it because the real Porsche 356 colour isn't metallic, but the Mica Red is pretty damn close in terms of the shade.

I've got to take my time with this one. I don't want to have to run down to the South Side to pay $40 for another.

[henk4]

I'm quite the Bohemian. So far I've been doing exactly what that holder has been doing, but with my hands.
I've sanded it down, which prevented a lot of drip, and the dripping isn't extreme, (what should be noted is I painted strips of silver over the trimlins, and then masked those lines-I want to get that extra silver painted over, but the transperncy prevents this) but the pigment is very nice at this point. If I put on many more light coats will the a lot of the colour be gone?

Henk-Would spraying primer over the current few coats still work?
On another note, all the bulges created by the dripping has also been sanded out.

I've got to take my time with this one. I don't want to have to run down to the South Side to pay $40 for another.

probably not, you may want to remove all the paint (brake oil,oven cleaner and start from scratch). If the paint is now evenly spread, you may continue with thin layers of the mica paint. I made a few cars with that paint, and experienced the same problems as you. I kept on spraying and most of the problems disappeared, but not totally.

[Esperante]

probably not, you may want to remove all the paint (brake oil,oven cleaner and start from scratch). If the paint is now evenly spread, you may continue with thin layers of the mica paint. I made a few cars with that paint, and experienced the same problems as you. I kept on spraying and most of the problems disappeared, but not totally.

Good. I was concerned because the last time I used a metallic paint on the Europa I fecked up pretty badly. I'll just have to slow it down a bit.

[Dino Scuderia]

I'm quite the Bohemian. So far I've been doing exactly what that holder has been doing, but with my hands.
I've sanded it down, which prevented a lot of drip, and the dripping isn't extreme, (what should be noted is I painted strips of silver over the trimlins, and then masked those lines-I want to get that extra silver painted over, but the transperncy prevents this) but the pigment is very nice at this point. If I put on many more light coats will the a lot of the colour be gone?

Henk-Would spraying primer over the current few coats still work?
On another note, all the bulges created by the dripping has also been sanded out.
As for the silver undercoat-I considered this for a short time, but decided against it because the real Porsche 356 colour isn't metallic, but the Mica Red is pretty damn close in terms of the shade.

I've got to take my time with this one. I don't want to have to run down to the South Side to pay $40 for another.

If I got your question properly, yes Mica colors will get darker as more coats go on, or you could also say more opaque.

[Esperante]

If I got your question properly, yes Mica colors will get darker as more coats go on, or you could also say more opaque.

Is there a 'terminal colour,' per se, in which it can't get much darker?

[Dino Scuderia]

Is there a 'terminal colour,' per se, in which it can't get much darker?

Yes, but I don't know where(how many coats) that threshold is.

[kingofthering]

i screwed up a Alpina B10 Fujimi kit with enamel and water-based paint, and there are these bumps on the paint. can someone please tell me how to remove all this and how to avoid these bumps?