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Thread: Aspiration Types

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightower99
    there are tons and tons of corvettes and supras and skylines and mustangs and all sorts of cars (camaroes, Porsches, Bimmers, jags, mazdas ect.) that use FI to get 750hp without using an obscene amount of money.
    Yes, but Skylines are turbo and a great part of Supras too.
    A 750bhp Mustang is a truck, not a car.
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  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightower99
    there are tons and tons of corvettes and supras and skylines and mustangs and all sorts of cars (camaroes, Porsches, Bimmers, jags, mazdas ect.) that use FI to get 750hp without using an obscene amount of money. the great thing about adding FI is that the system its self is the only thing you need to pay for. Stuffing a whole new engine in that you bought from some tuner is a bigger task.
    How is taking your motor out or another block you have, bringing it to someone to have the work done, then bolting it back in a big task. I take it you've never put a motor into a car?

    Also with the f/i, you should upgrade different parts for the engine for max reliability and performance. You can't just throw a turbo set up onto a car and hope everything else on the stock motor holds.

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv
    Where do you draw the line between racing engine and not a racing engine?
    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
    Would you consider that a racing engine? It puts out 620hp/650ftlbs, and the info makes it seem like it's not stressed at all, so more power can be made.
    First you tell me that you don't need an overly huge motor to get 750hp NA...

    Second you say it can be done for 7-8K USD....

    Then you show me a 9.4L monster V8 that is already in a high state of tune that only makes 620hp (130hp off from the target) that costs 13K USD already (5-6K USD over what you said)

    Sorry but that isn't good enough by a long shot! I doubt you could squeeze another 130hp out of that without using less than another 5-6K USD Which would make it cost IMO way more (probably 2x) than what a good turbo or SC system would.

    and technically it is a racing engine but it is something you can get off the shelf so I would think that it is certainly possible to have that in your car.
    Even though only a few cars can fit that and it tops out at 6000rpm.
    Power, whether measured as HP, PS, or KW is what accelerates cars and gets it up to top speed. Power also determines how far you take a wall when you hit it
    Engine torque is an illusion.

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by McReis
    Yes, but Skylines are turbo and a great part of Supras too.
    A 750bhp Mustang is a truck, not a car.
    What do you mean by that?

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightower99
    First you tell me that you don't need an overly huge motor to get 750hp NA...

    Second you say it can be done for 7-8K USD....

    Then you show me a 9.4L monster V8 that is already in a high state of tune that only makes 620hp (130hp off from the target) that costs 13K USD already (5-6K USD over what you said)

    Sorry but that isn't good enough by a long shot! I doubt you could squeeze another 130hp out of that without using less than another 5-6K USD Which would make it cost IMO way more (probably 2x) than what a good turbo or SC system would.

    and technically it is a racing engine but it is something you can get off the shelf so I would think that it is certainly possible to have that in your car.
    Even though only a few cars can fit that and it tops out at 6000rpm.
    I realize you don't need a huge motor to get huge hp n/a, hence F1 engines, the price difference between a big block and an F1 motor are HUGE!
    There is a HUGE difference in price between bringing a shop a block and having them do work, and buying out of a magainze. Something you would know if you actually worked in the field.
    There isn't anything else on the motor that you could spend 5-6k on. You have to work with cam and timing, maybe decking the heads to up the compression, head work, different valves, etc.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv
    How is taking your motor out or another block you have, bringing it to someone to have the work done, then bolting it back in a big task. I take it you've never put a motor into a car?

    Also with the f/i, you should upgrade different parts for the engine for max reliability and performance. You can't just throw a turbo set up onto a car and hope everything else on the stock motor holds.
    depends on the car. Some cars are easy others are a pain in the neck. Taking the motor out and putting it back in without changing anything is a big task. Putting a completely different motor in can be harder especially when it is bigger.

    Yes you need to upgrade internals for big power FI but you can normally do that without removing the engine. Also you would be surprised what a stock motor can take with proper care and fine tuning. Stock miata internals have taken 400hp from a turbo without blowing up. A big V8 can take alot without changing much.
    Power, whether measured as HP, PS, or KW is what accelerates cars and gets it up to top speed. Power also determines how far you take a wall when you hit it
    Engine torque is an illusion.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightower99
    depends on the car. Some cars are easy others are a pain in the neck. Taking the motor out and putting it back in without changing anything is a big task. Putting a completely different motor in can be harder especially when it is bigger.

    Yes you need to upgrade internals for big power FI but you can normally do that without removing the engine. Also you would be surprised what a stock motor can take with proper care and fine tuning. Stock miata internals have taken 400hp from a turbo without blowing up. A big V8 can take alot without changing much.
    I realize that about engines being put into cars.
    How do you easily remove pistons from a motor that is still in a car?

    I'm sure that miata had low miles, had not been driven or raced for a long time. Those stock piston rings will only last for a certain amount of time.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv
    I realize you don't need a huge motor to get huge hp n/a, hence F1 engines, the price difference between a big block and an F1 motor are HUGE!
    There is a HUGE difference in price between bringing a shop a block and having them do work, and buying out of a magainze. Something you would know if you actually worked in the field.
    There isn't anything else on the motor that you could spend 5-6k on. You have to work with cam and timing, maybe decking the heads to up the compression, head work, different valves, etc.
    Umm what about ITB? upgraded ignition system? just sending it in for head work costs about 1-3K USD depending on what you want them to do. If you want to up the revs (best bet for increased HP if it tops out at 6000rpm now) you could blow a fortune on titanium con-rods. You are not gonna get 750hp from fiddling with the timing and increasing the compression alittle (it is already pretty high)

    13K is ok for that engine. If you sent even a 4xx block to a tuner you are looking at well over 10K for 750hp without using FI.

    As I said NA is only good to about 500hp (rare occasions due happen but not on american V8s) FI is cheaper and more effective after that.
    Power, whether measured as HP, PS, or KW is what accelerates cars and gets it up to top speed. Power also determines how far you take a wall when you hit it
    Engine torque is an illusion.

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv
    What do you mean by that?
    I mean a Mustang with all that power can hardly be steered, let alone be driven.
    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv
    I'm sure that miata had low miles, had not been driven or raced for a long time. Those stock piston rings will only last for a certain amount of time.
    You don't know what you're saying! Miatas can take everything! And I mean everything. Scissors, air-brushes, hair-dryers etc.. and in style! All you need is lots of WD40.
    Last edited by McReis; 11-29-2006 at 11:07 AM.
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  10. #55
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    I'm gonna go ahead and assume this Miata wasn't on a stock compression ratio. Did he just throw a gigantic head spacer on it? That's really not the best way to go about turboing a car.
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  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv
    I realize that about engines being put into cars.
    How do you easily remove pistons from a motor that is still in a car?

    I'm sure that miata had low miles, had not been driven or raced for a long time. Those stock piston rings will only last for a certain amount of time.
    the engine was a used 2L with 55000 miles on the clock and when it had the turbo on it, it went drag racing (thats why the guy put the turbo on in the first place)

    It isn't easy but you can change pistons without taking the engine out (although it is easier on inline engines)
    Power, whether measured as HP, PS, or KW is what accelerates cars and gets it up to top speed. Power also determines how far you take a wall when you hit it
    Engine torque is an illusion.

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiggs
    I'm gonna go ahead and assume this Miata wasn't on a stock compression ratio. Did he just throw a gigantic head spacer on it? That's really not the best way to go about turboing a car.
    nope stock compression too. '95 2L miata unit.
    Power, whether measured as HP, PS, or KW is what accelerates cars and gets it up to top speed. Power also determines how far you take a wall when you hit it
    Engine torque is an illusion.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightower99
    nope stock compression too. '95 2L miata unit.
    Sorry but that doesn't exist. Miata were either 1.6 or 1.8.
    Money can't buy you friends, but you do get a better class of enemy.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightower99
    Umm what about ITB? upgraded ignition system? just sending it in for head work costs about 1-3K USD depending on what you want them to do. If you want to up the revs (best bet for increased HP if it tops out at 6000rpm now) you could blow a fortune on titanium con-rods. You are not gonna get 750hp from fiddling with the timing and increasing the compression alittle (it is already pretty high)

    13K is ok for that engine. If you sent even a 4xx block to a tuner you are looking at well over 10K for 750hp without using FI.

    As I said NA is only good to about 500hp (rare occasions due happen but not on american V8s) FI is cheaper and more effective after that.
    You have your opinion, I have mine. I'll leave it at that because this is just getting pointless.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightower99
    It isn't easy but you can change pistons without taking the engine out (although it is easier on inline engines)
    I would like to see someone doing that, it'd make my day.

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