Changing parts for my Eclipse.

[DivXerouS]

My car passed 100,000K+ last month and I was told I need to get the timing belt changed because that can really EFF up the car according to what I was told. I don't think it is true that it will mess up the engine but anyone mind elaborating...?

Afcourse Im going to be doing the usual stuff as well, oil-change, air-filter, and the main part the ROTORS & Brake-Pads. My rotors are damn near warped, car shaking when I brake etc etc, which happens very quickly so I was talking to another guy with an Eclipse and he suggested to go for the slotted rotors for performance. I checked out the prices and found a good set for the front (my car is Front-Wheel drive). I ordered them for about 190 from Pep-Boys and their EBC brand. So do you guys think its worth it to go for performance rotors rather than regular. Me personally I don't mind giving it a try so thats why I went for it.

EBC Rotors the first picture.

[johnnynumfiv]

It's not worth it to get slotted rotors, in theory, they will be worse at stopping than stock rotors because there is less surface area for the brake pad to go against. If you try to replace the timing belt, and don't know what you are doing, yea you will screw the motor up. The cams go out of timing if you do it improperly.

[h22a]

Slots increase pad bite and reduce fade whilst they dissipate water when driving in poor weather, as well as pump away dust and dirt.
Slotting also helps reduce out-gassing, where gas (from the pad bonding agents) can form a cushion between pad and rotor, reducing braking power.
Only problem is they make more sound when your braking hard

[jcp123]

If the timing belt breaks - and trust me, after 100k miles, it's been weakened or at least stretched - you can get the old "oops my valve hit the piston" problem not good. Even if it's stretched, you can get some weird symptoms like backfiring up the intake, reduced power, etc, depending on its condition. Definitely get it replaced.

Other things to look at are the O2 sensors, catalytic converters, U-joints, change tranny fluid (which should be done every 30k miles if you can), shocks...at 100k, there's a lot of stuff that warrants a look. Basically, if it moves a lot or takes a lot of stress, it should be looked at, and replaced if needed, but the stuff listed above would be at the top of my list.

As for brakes, IMHO you'd get more bang for your buck getting good brake pads than performance rotors. The slotted rotors will help under hard, extreme use, but for a daily driver, all they really do for you is look pretty. A good set of pads, on the other hand, can both reduce the amount of brake dust you have to clean up, as well as bite the rotors harder, giving you more stopping power.

[Rockefella]

If the timing belt breaks - and trust me, after 100k miles, it's been weakened or at least stretched - you can get the old "oops my valve hit the piston" problem not good. Even if it's stretched, you can get some weird symptoms like backfiring up the intake, reduced power, etc, depending on its condition. Definitely get it replaced.

Other things to look at are the O2 sensors, catalytic converters, U-joints, change tranny fluid (which should be done every 30k miles if you can), shocks...at 100k, there's a lot of stuff that warrants a look. Basically, if it moves a lot or takes a lot of stress, it should be looked at, and replaced if needed, but the stuff listed above would be at the top of my list.

As for brakes, IMHO you'd get more bang for your buck getting good brake pads than performance rotors. The slotted rotors will help under hard, extreme use, but for a daily driver, all they really do for you is look pretty. A good set of pads, on the other hand, can both reduce the amount of brake dust you have to clean up, as well as bite the rotors harder, giving you more stopping power.

What he said. It'd probably be a good idea to bring it to a trusty mechanic and have him look around for problems.

[johnnynumfiv]

Slots increase pad bite and reduce fade whilst they dissipate water when driving in poor weather, as well as pump away dust and dirt.
Slotting also helps reduce out-gassing, where gas (from the pad bonding agents) can form a cushion between pad and rotor, reducing braking power.
Only problem is they make more sound when your braking hard

How do they increase pad bite when there is less to bite to? In a single stop, solid rotors will work better than anything else, but for endurance it depends on your pads/cooling or slotted/drilled rotors.

[Quiggs]

Only get slotted/drilled rotors if you are upsizing them. Replacing them with stock sized parts will decrease stopping power, as J#5 said. Slots in a rotor are NOT for heat dissipation. They're for cleaning the pad off. Vented and drilled rotors increase heat dissipation.

A broken timing belt may cause bent valves and pistons, if you have an interference motor. Which you probably do. If you don't know how to do a timing belt, and aren't mechanically inclined, I suggest you take it to a qualified professional.

If you're not going to track the car (and I don't mean drag racing), then drilled rotors were a complete waste of money, and will actually not work as well on the street. If you're going to autocross or do time trials, then they may be a worthwhile investment. But a better investment in that case would probably be some driving lessons.

[Quiggs]

How do they increase pad bite when there is less to bite to? In a single stop, solid rotors will work better than anything else, but for endurance it depends on your pads/cooling or slotted/drilled rotors.

Solid faced rotors. Vented rotors will dissipate heat, and in a theoretical 200-0 mph stop, the vented rotors would be better. But now I'm getting into semantics.

[johnnynumfiv]

Solid faced rotors. Vented rotors will dissipate heat, and in a theoretical 200-0 mph stop, the vented rotors would be better. But now I'm getting into semantics.

Ape tits for 400?

[Quiggs]

I have a Chardonnay. When you pick this question, you automatically get the points, and I have a glass of wine.

[h22a]

How do they increase pad bite when there is less to bite to? In a single stop, solid rotors will work better than anything else, but for endurance it depends on your pads/cooling or slotted/drilled rotors.

Bye removing gases from the face of the disc, these gases greatly reduce the coefficient of friction. Disc pads, when hot, expel gases. These gases form a cushion between the face of the disc and the pad.
It takes a tenth of a second to squeeze these gases out on normal rotors.
When a vehicle is travelling at 100km/h, it is moving at a rate of 30 metres per second, therefore a tenth of a second is three metres. So in essence when the brakes are applied the vehicle travels for three metres squeezing out gases, and not creating friction to slow the vehicle.

[johnnynumfiv]

Squeeze my gassses.

[Quiggs]

I have a conundrum for you, a riddle if you will. What's the difference between J#5 and a mallard with a cold?

[DivXerouS]

Thank you all for the replies and yes I am planning to get the EBC brake-pads as well to go with the rotors which are also high-performance so it should balance it out. My main goal is not to race but rather last longer than usual so I don't have to worry about oh when is it going to start getting warped etc etc.

As for the timing belt I'm going to get it checked out by a professional and see where I stand with it.

Any more suggestions...?

[Rockefella]

I have a conundrum for you, a riddle if you will. What's the difference between J#5 and a mallard with a cold?

One of them is a sick duck. The rest I forgot...