Thank you, I didn't really want the calipers to stand out. To the trained eye they are a nice detail, at least thats what I was going for. I called them rice because they don't make the car any faster.
Member
Thank you, I didn't really want the calipers to stand out. To the trained eye they are a nice detail, at least thats what I was going for. I called them rice because they don't make the car any faster.
The Voice of Reason
By the same logic your stock passenger seat is clearly rice - get that garbage outta there.Originally Posted by Turbo.Jenkens
Cheers man
Member
LOL, thats for the Ladies.... its gonna stay.By the same logic your stock passenger seat is clearly rice - get that garbage outta there.
Cheers man
Fanatic
Wow... beautiful... Get a Mazdaspeed bumper and a wing and it'll look like Kyoko's from Inital D stage 3.
Or upgrade to a nice set of Recaro or Bride + Takatas.
I'm dropping out to create a company that starts with motorcycles, then cars, and forty years later signs a legendary Brazilian driver who has a public and expensive feud with his French teammate.
Super Moderator
FAIL.
For Great Justice.
IMHO keep this car as smooth and unadorned as possible.
everywhere but where it counts
for one of the few cars without a straight line on it , it manages to look DAMN sexy. you should be very proud of this car. because i am very envious.
<cough> www.charginmahlazer.tumblr.com </cough>
Fanatic
Get those wheels and fit one of the stock FD spoilers to it, like this one:
then it'll be uber-awesome.
Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death...
– Hunter Thompson
Flat Out
FB... 1981 in blue, and yes i am keeping the mini for now.
Honor. Courage. Commitment. Etcetera.
Enthusiast
Sweet ride! awsome, i can only wish!!
Have fun with it for all of us
"Religious belief is the “path of least resistance”, says Boyer, while disbelief requires effort."
Furniture
Yes, a small wing wouldn't look out of place, although without the wing it looks good too.
Member
The white one belongs to a friend. Its an LS1 transplant, and it breaths fire/devours peasants. When he took me for a ride it pinned me back in the seat so hard it left a bump on the back of my head. That car could get a man in trouble.
Fanatic
So, as I said earlier, go for a nice set of racing buckets, preferably Recaro or Bride if JDM's your thing.
I'm dropping out to create a company that starts with motorcycles, then cars, and forty years later signs a legendary Brazilian driver who has a public and expensive feud with his French teammate.
Member
Dude you have no Idea how proud I am of (or how often I clean/protect) my original leather.
Member
When I run across a R1 front lip I'll get it, other than that I don't plan on changing much cosmetically. The kid at the local autoparts store can't comprehend why I haven't gone to a single turbo yet. 500 hp monsters are for some, but not me. I prefer being able to exit corners at full throttle.
Also reliability plays a key role my plans for future mods. I'm sure your aware of the 13b's reputation for blowing apex seals. Some have to be rebuilt before 50,000 miles. This alone was almost enough to put me in a different car. I spent a good bit of time researching it, which wasn't to hard. The average FD owner is much more technically inclined than me and they are a tight knit group of owners usually very forth coming with knowledge.
From what I gathered 80,000+ miles can be expected from the motor if one follows 5 rules.
1) Let the car idle to operating temperature before driving. This is a good idea with any car but especially so with the rotary.
2) Don't put too much boost on the motor. You'd be amazed how much longer the NA rotarys last.
3) Don't let her overheat. An aftermarket water temp gauge is the single most important devise one can add. The factory temp gauge is s**t. If the rotary gets to about 260 F you can kiss the apex seals good buy and start saving up for an engine rebuild. I definitely see an aftermarket radiator & fan in my future. If you noticed in my first post many of the mods were designed to make her run cooler.
4) Run 2 cycle oil in every tank.Sounds crazy doesn't it. This is heavily debated in the RX-7 forums. The naysayers claim that the main supplier of the special blend (Protec R) is its main proponent so it must be a scam to make more $$$. Most owners I know of use it and Pettit Racing who runs rotarys in the 24Hrs of Daytona swears by it. I've heard that its pretty much the same stuff as snowmobile oil, but I play it safe. The 13b burns a quart of oil every 2000 miles by design. As it was explained to me oil is injected into the combustion chamber to lubricate the apex seals as they spin inside their housing. If I'm not mistaken a piston motor has 3 seals for every combustion chamber (I've never unassembled a motor so please correct me if I'm wrong). On the otherhand, the Rotary has one for each chamber and produces much more friction. These seals are the Achilles heal of the Rotary. When ever you hear of one getting rebuilt essentially the apex seals are getting replaced. Any extra friction reducing is welcome in a rotary, especially during startup.
5) If your not willing/able to service it yourself take it to a RX-7 specific shop. Don't take it to just any mechanic or Mazda dealership.
Again - I'm not an engineer - if you own or are planning to own a 3rd gen RX-7 go to the RX-7 specific forums and call the tuning shops. It is a wonderfully rewarding car to drive. A poor mans exotic, except in the maintenance Dept where it is a true exotic.
Member
Forgot to mention they don't like to run lean. Alot of people break their FDs by increasing HP without increasing fuel flow. High flow injectors and reprogrammed computers are a must for aggressively tuned cars. FDs and MX-5s share the same fuel filter, big oversite on Mazda's part since they are nearly twice as thirsty. Fuel filter replacement is required every 30,000 miles or less depending on who you talk to.
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