Need Help!!!!!

[werty]

OK, i just installed a 1000 watt subwoofer into my truck, it sounds great. then two days later, yesterday, i put xenon headlights and LED taillights on to make my truck a little bit nicer. Then after about an hour of driving time, my blinkers all started to blink very fast when i turn them on for a turn. So i went back home and tried to fix it. I put in the old tailights back in and when i did that now the blinkers don't work at all and also the brake lights dont work! so i can't drive it anywhere.

I checked the fuses in the cab and two from blinkers and brake lights were destroyed. If i replace them will they just burn out again? Does the sub have anything to do with this problem? Can i put higher amp fuses in so i can keep the sub and new lights?

Please help me!!!

[byronleehk]

werty,

Fuses is to protect the car from dangerous situations caused by electrical chaos, short circuit, equipment failure, excessively high current draw. If you put in higher amp fuses, you run the risk of 'cooking' the car's wiring circuits if something goes wrong because the fuse wouldn't "break".

I would look into installing a voltage regulator or something similar to keep the current at bay.

[bk4uyeah]

I agree, a voltage regulator should do the trick.

[werty]

I agree, a voltage regulator should do the trick.

ok thanks, but how much do they usually cost and where do they install? Also will this voltage regulator prevent more fuses from burning out, so i can keep the new sub and lights?

[byronleehk]

ok thanks, but how much do they usually cost and where do they install? Also will this voltage regulator prevent more fuses from burning out, so i can keep the new sub and lights?

I don't know about your truck so I have included some links for your reference

how much do they usually cost and where do they install?

prices

where to install

will this voltage regulator prevent more fuses from burning out, so i can keep the new sub and lights?

Depends on your truck's wiring system/conditions. Follow link may help...

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener.../bldef_847.htm

[werty]

ok well i'm off to the store, i'll tell you if it worked or not later, thanks again

[Matra et Alpine]

Voltage regulators don't control current, they control Voltage and keep it at a nominal 12V in the system. If your regulator is faulty you'll get ignition warning light on the dash.

A simple voltmeter across the battery will check for you.
It will be 12V with the engine off, 14.5V with the engine running and the altenrator providing dharge to the battery.
If you want to be REALLY analytical, check the voltage at any of the bulbs.

If your ignition light stays on or you're getting high or low voltage then trhe output diode of the alternator could have blown with excess current drawn or the regulator chip - these usually reside IN alternators. But as you've been pointed at a site selling external ( looks old electro-mechanical ) regs then you could try. Easier to have an auto-electrician check the voltages and confirm before spending bucks on parts

What you've done is pulled too much current.
Voltage doen't do any harm, CURRENT does

How did you wire in your bass box ?
Where did you take the power feed from and how did you provde the earth return ?

It's advisable with bass boxes to provide a seperate heavy duty power cable DIRECTLY from the battery.

Likewise the earth should be substantial cable and as close as possible.

Is it possible you've used a common live feed or earth return for lights to feed the bass box ?


If you've picked up power from a comon wire in your loom then in all likelihood you've overheated the loom and burnt the insulation off. THAT could be nasty to track down and expensive to replace.

Start by removing the connections to the bass box in the (unlikely) case that it has failed closed circuit.
Remove the bulbs ( VERY unlikely but possible).
Replace the fuses with CORRECT ratings and test the systems.
If the fuses blow immediately then it's your wiring loom I'm afraid you'r going to have to trace the wiring loom and visually inspect it. Or take it to an auto-electrician who will check over it with an AVO in a few minutes

If they DON'T blow then put the bulbs back in and try again. ( OR you could test the bulbs using an AVO )

If still don't blow then you've a working car BUT .........

Whatever route you have to follow to fix this, do NOT use that bass box without a competent installation. 1000Watts of power output will be about 1800 watts of INPUT, at 12volts, that means 150 AMPS of current. Your alternator is likely only rated 120 !! So you'll over-stress the alternator and output diodes. Car wiring is not rated that high so without a seperate feed you'll keep burning up 18wg wire

So check your alternator output rating and remember that as well as the bass box it has tobe able to run your lights, pumps and charge the battery
If it's not big enough, get an upgrade. Voltage Regulatorsa are built IN to alternators so you get a free upgrade on that if you really wanted it

SOrry to hear of the bad luck/news.
Let us know what you find with the above test.

[werty]

ok heres what i've done so far...

I replaced a few fuses that had to do with brake lights and turning signals. then i took out the new LED tail lights and put the originals back in. Presto! I fixed it. The brake lights work as do the turnings signals.
But then after i fixed it my dad and i checked everything else to make sure it worked and now the fog lights and the inside instrument lights don't work. so i went to the Ford Dealership and got replacement relays. Won't find out if the fog light and inside lights work until 4:30 in 3 hours, then the part arrives and i'll pick it up.

Also...i don't think the sub woofer had anything to do with this electrical problem cause it has worked perfectly now for like 4 days. the electrical problems didn't start until after i installed the tail lights. and even when the lights stopped working, the sub and radio and CD player worked.. So i've ruled out the possibility that the sub caused the problem.

The way me and my friend hooked up the sub was all his idea and it has worked out fine with no problems. We exposed the wires from both rear speakers and wrapped a new wire around them separatly, then wrapped them with elc tape. Then the wires connected to the speaker wires go strait to the sub where they just click in. And it works great.

the sub is great though! My friend and i got a subwoofer mix on a CD thats nothing but loud bumping noise, and we play it at intersections and everyone looks at us funny as we laugh our heads off.

[Matra et Alpine]

ok heres what i've done so far...

I replaced a few fuses that had to do with brake lights and turning signals. then i took out the new LED tail lights and put the originals back in. Presto! I fixed it. The brake lights work as do the turnings signals.
But then after i fixed it my dad and i checked everything else to make sure it worked and now the fog lights and the inside instrument lights don't work. so i went to the Ford Dealership and got replacement relays. Won't find out if the fog light and inside lights work until 4:30 in 3 hours, then the part arrives and i'll pick it up.

Sounds like you've had a MAJOR current surge somewhere.
I hope the loom is OK, coz it all points there
Have you checked the alternator output yet ?
If diode has shorted in the pack you may be getting 18 volts. They usually go open, but ....

Also...i don't think the sub woofer had anything to do with this electrical problem cause it has worked perfectly now for like 4 days. the electrical problems didn't start until after i installed the tail lights. and even when the lights stopped working, the sub and radio and CD player worked.. So i've ruled out the possibility that the sub caused the problem.

Did you check the current requirements for those lights ?
A lighting circuit shuold easily be able to drive 50W so I can't see it as the culprit, but worth checking....

The way me and my friend hooked up the sub was all his idea and it has worked out fine with no problems. We exposed the wires from both rear speakers and wrapped a new wire around them separatly, then wrapped them with elc tape. Then the wires connected to the speaker wires go strait to the sub where they just click in. And it works great.

erm, has the sub a filter on the inputs ?
If not then you'll blow the sub pretty soon.
You should take an output from the cd to a low-pass filter and then to the sub separate from the speakers.
If you ARE going to use a speaker fit then it should go through a daul-filter to split low to the sub and mid-high to the main speakers.
Lots of high-frequencuies through a sub amp will cause LOTS of distortion and stress the output stages.
Suggest you check the manufacturers spec re filters.

the sub is great though! My friend and i got a subwoofer mix on a CD thats nothing but loud bumping noise, and we play it at intersections and everyone looks at us funny as we laugh our heads off.

Get some Tenacious'D on for full effect

[KnifeEdge_2K1]

how did u install the xenon lights? ive heard that in some cars you need to overhaul the whole system since the power required is much higher or something to that extent

[Matra et Alpine]

how did u install the xenon lights? ive heard that in some cars you need to overhaul the whole system since the power required is much higher or something to that extent

Good point knifeedge, what are the power ratings on the bulbs ?
It's not the xenon itsself that's the issue, but you can be tempted to believe that more power is better and it is if your wiring can handle it
If you ARE increasing the power rating of a bulb it's always worth putting a relay in the main lighting circuit and connecting substantial wiring from the battery direct to the relay and to the lights

[byronleehk]

As you install more gismos in your car, more power is needed and thus more amperage flows into the battery to compensate for the added load.

Voltage regulators are there to make sure the output voltage max out at 14.5 volt. If the voltage goes above 14.5, the regulator cuts off the current to the field terminal and keeps the battery from overcharging and cooking irself...except in racing where specially prepared racing batteries are used (I'm just GUESSING about this part, Matra. Am I even close? )

[werty]

well i put all the new fuses and relays in yesterday and now everything is back to normal. i was able to keep the Xenon's and the sub but had to return the LED tail lights...oh well. Anyways i took my truck out for a spin after we fixed it and nothing bad happened and the lights lit up the whole neighborhood ! And the sub still works great!

I really got a great deal on the sub too, it was normally $160 and i got it for $20 , anyways thanks everyone for your help, hopefully i've learned my $50 lesson and i wont overload my fuses again

[Matra et Alpine]

well i put all the new fuses and relays in yesterday and now everything is back to normal. i was able to keep the Xenon's and the sub but had to return the LED tail lights...oh well. Anyways i took my truck out for a spin after we fixed it and nothing bad happened and the lights lit up the whole neighborhood ! And the sub still works great!

I really got a great deal on the sub too, it was normally $160 and i got it for $20 , anyways thanks everyone for your help, hopefully i've learned my $50 lesson and i wont overload my fuses again

Just watch out what music you play ....
99% of the time your sub will only be putting out less than 10% of it's rating.
When you chose to show of to some hoenys and play that slammin garage/dance/trance/rap music you're gonna make it put out those 1000 watts, which will draw 120amps and blow lots of fuses (AGAIN).

[Matra et Alpine]

As you install more gismos in your car, more power is needed and thus more amperage flows into the battery to compensate for the added load.

Voltage regulators are there to make sure the output voltage max out at 14.5 volt. If the voltage goes above 14.5, the regulator cuts off the current to the field terminal and keeps the battery from overcharging and cooking irself...except in racing where specially prepared racing batteries are used (I'm just GUESSING about this part, Matra. Am I even close? )

spot on
( 'cept racing, there are still VRs doing the same job. Racing batteries are all about weight and safety !! )