Engine problems after wash

[QBridge]

I washed the engine on a 2000 Hyundai Elantra a day ago. I started the car today and got out on the road, hit the gas and got nothing, the car goes but slow sometimes and sometimes it picks up and goes normal. The engine like stalls. It like hesitates to go when I press the gas pedal but it picks up sometimes and sometimes it doesn't and it makes this noise that it didn't make before like interrupted engine noise. The check engine light came on also and it flashed for an entire minute when I drove the car and it's still on when I turn the car on and off. I opened the hood and the engine shakes and before it wasn't shaking at all.
Before I washed it I covered this motor a mechanic told me to cover in aluminum foil and covered most of the electrical connections even though he said I didn't have to and covered the air intake. After I washed the engine I gave the car an entire 24 hours to dry up. I also drove in stormy weather with the car before and it was pouring but the car worked fine so I don't know what's going on.

I need to go to work today hahahaha
I could go to this Aamco that offers free check ups but I don't think I can make it and I can damage the car more if the car isn't already ****ed up.


Did I **** up my car?

[Matra et Alpine]

You've ended up getting water in somewhere.
it's most likely electrical.

Sounds like you've got a bad spark to one plug. SO check all the connections from the distrbutor/ignition module and the plugs and to the coil or ECU.

hmmm, GA .... check the spark plug leads for cracking. You guys get warm and the leads may have damp in the inner core. WHile the car is running pull each plug one at a time off the engine and then back on. If one of them makes NO difference to the engine then that's the culprit lead

Check the distributor's not full of water - surprisign how easily that happens
Also possible the connections to/from the ECU or any of the sensors has been disturbed. Check them by opening and making sure they're dry. If not dry them and put a bit of petroleum grease or WD40 on them.

How did you "wash" the engine ? If it was with a jet wash then good chance you've broken a connection or wire - there is a LOT of force in those jets While the engine is running go over EVERY connection and gently wiggle it to see if it improves Just watch out for the HT as you might get a belt if the connection is arcing

BUT it could be fuelling - ie the filter or plenum has lots of water in it.
Remove the filter box and visually check it.

OR oil and could be hydraulicing in the sump. Remove the oil cap and see if there's any white froth. Also check the dipstick level for signs of water/frothing.

Driving in rain doesn't force water from the top DOWN and it's very comon for jet-wash engine hosedowns to bring problems to the surface

[QBridge]

I washed it with this engine wash spray bottle. I sprayed this stuff on the engine let it sit for 5min and than washed it with a garden hose that didn't have a lot of pressure. The engine is still dirty so I did nothing and broke something.

I checked the engine oil dip stick after I ran the engine and the oil looked normal . I removed the oil cap and looked in and everything was normal. I moved around the connections and unplugged some and plugged them back in. They were all dry except one which is dry now.
Do you think the car can make it 10 miles so I can go to Aamco?

This is bullshit. I seen people submerge their cars in water deep enough to cover tail pipes and they drive away. I seen people hose down the engines at car washes, they don't even give it time to dry and drive away.
Maybe it's because it's a Hyundai. It is a piece of shit even if you buy it new.

[Matra et Alpine]

I'd do a check on the spark plug leads.
Especially check the "well" the plug sits in , with handwashign it's very easy for that to fill up with water which makes delivering the spark a little difficult.
10 miles is a worry if it's anything OTHER than the spark. Even if that's all it is then you risk it cutting out in traffic and you ARE stressing the engine mounts with possibly a large out of balance engine.
I'd advice against - but would probably do it myself chosing a quiet time on the road and takign it easy. Isnt' there a local car electricican who could do a quick check for you ?

Or don't you have any car recovery/roadside repair deals like our AA/RAC ??
Drive it to the end of the block and call it in. Don't say you washed it

[QBridge]

AA/RAC would be nice but I cant even afford regular gas hahahahah so no I don't have AA/RAC whatever. You are soon to talk to an uninsured driver much less road side assistance hahahahah

The Aamco is the closet repair shop I can go to that offers a free check up.
I can go to Aamco in city traffic and hope I don't block out the busiest road in this city maybe even the state hahahah and If I do that I guess the wrong person would find out I don't even have a license hahahah but I at least have insurance for the time being.

OR

I can go to work on the freeway and pull over the side of the road if it dies.

I think I'll take the freeway.

I cant check the spark plugs like you said. I know that there is 4 of them but I'm not sure where they are. I have seen these 4 things that look like spark plugs right above the engine and they have electric connections right above them. Could that be it? The car manual doesn't even mention where they are located. I guess I'll look online.

[nota]

WHile the car is running pull each plug one at a time off the engine and then back on. If one of them makes NO difference to the engine then that's the culprit lead

I have to say this is very poor advice, particularly if directed to a novice like Qbridge appears to be

Many modern cars use extremely potent high energy ignition (HEI) systems. Casually recommending that a beginner disconnect a spark plug lead whilst the engine is running can not only CREATE FURTHER DAMAGE to electrical components through the lead no longer being earthed, but may also expose the person doing it to a considerable electrical shock - a shock which with HEI can be strong enough to BE FATAL

And whether Hyundais Lantras do have HEI or not is irrelevant, despite no mention of caution being offered. What is relevant IMO is the blasé offering of recommendations which is likely to be not only be risky to his vehicle, but even more importantly to him as well

[QBridge]

I went to Aamco. I went there before with a previous transmittion problem. They remembered and asked me where I went and fixed the transmittion. I told them a different repair shop. hahahah they than told me to "go back to that repair shop and find out why the check engine light is on." hahahaha not what I expected since the check up was free. I said alright and left.

It's been a week since I fixed the transmittion and just today I had problems. Could be the transmittion or it could be that I washed the engine. I doubt that it's anything to do with the transmittion as the car worked without problems for an entire week and only after I washed the engine I had this problem.

I'm glad I made it back. The car hardly moves. It's dead on the wheels and shakes a lot. Engine sounds like crap.

[nota]

Qbridge your car is shaking and lacks power because it is not running on all 4 cylinders. The likelyhood is that not all cylinders are 'firing' because there is ..

(a) water is still present somewhere in the ignition system, and has shorted out the electrical current which goes to one of your engine's cylinders - hence that particular cylinder is not getting the electrical spark required to make it fire so it is no longer running, which consequently causes loss of power & the rough engine. A knowledgable person can dry out whichever affected component it is with compressed air, or using a water-dispersal spray (eg WD40 aerosol), It is quite easy for a novice to accidentally damage electrical connections & components

(b) water may have gotten into one of your engine's electrical components, and damaged it so no spark to a cylinder. This would require correct diagnosis by a qualified person and then replacement of that part. At worst this could be the engine's computer, in which case your repair shop should replace with a (cheaper) 2nd hand unit. Hopefully it is not the case

Either way, you are not doing your car any favours by operating it when it is sick. Sympathies for your low budget, but prudence might indicate that you may have to spend some $ to fix the problem, before this one problem causes further damage & even greater expense

As you no doubt now realise, introducing water into the engine bay of modern vehicles which are jam-packed underhood with fragile electronics can be a risky business unless you are an expert. Far too often the perils outweigh the benefits

Good luck

[Cyco]

I went to Aamco. I went there before with a previous transmittion problem. They remembered and asked me where I went and fixed the transmittion. I told them a different repair shop. hahahah they than told me to "go back to that repair shop and find out why the check engine light is on." hahahaha not what I expected since the check up was free. I said alright and left.

So you went for a free diagnosis and check from Aamco for a transmission issue and they went and used this information to get it fixxed else where. You then went back there to get a 2nd issue diagnosed (within a week).

You appear to have no desire to have them fix the probblem, why would they spend their time and money on you when they will get nothing in return? The whole idea of the free check is for you to them have it easiest for them to fix any problems they find.

[Matra et Alpine]

I have to say this is very poor advice, particularly if directed to a novice like Qbridge appears to be

Many modern cars use extremely potent high energy ignition (HEI) systems. Casually recommending that a beginner disconnect a spark plug lead whilst the engine is running can not only CREATE FURTHER DAMAGE to electrical components through the lead no longer being earthed, but may also expose the person doing it to a considerable electrical shock - a shock which with HEI can be strong enough to BE FATAL

You're right on the 'advice' but I DID give the caveat
Also it's false to say that HEIs fail because of a removed spark lead.
The charge circuit for the output drivers in ECUs are common so the risk is small that the build up of charge will cause problems only when ALL 4 leads are removed and then it is VERY slim that it will induce track breakdown as modern leads are high resistance.
Where did you get info that it will cause damage ??
The risk from the spark discharge is also over-stated. It IS dangerous to us IF it finds a track across the chest with minimal resistance. Even putting a finger in the plug is only a risk if you have heart problem. Modern leads are high resistance for this too !!!!!

And whether Hyundais Lantras do have HEI or not is irrelevant, despite no mention of caution being offered. What is relevant IMO is the blasé offering of recommendations which is likely to be not only be risky to his vehicle, but even more importantly to him as well

It was perhaps a little blase, agreed, but not anymore risk than taking a mis-firing car onto an open road !!

Let's put it in context. A mechanic I knew determined how well the comeptition ignition was firing by putting hsi finger IN the plug lead and cranking the engine. I've had a few belts over the years from everything from run-of-mill car to full works Quattros. You are over-stating the risk.

I agree I maybe shoudl have spent more words on the warning than I did, BUT you are over-quoting the risks and possibly generating inappropriate fears. Folks shoulnd't be scared of working on cars because of 'risks' - after all used oil is carcinogenic

[QBridge]

So you went for a free diagnosis and check from Aamco for a transmission issue and they went and used this information to get it fixxed else where. You then went back there to get a 2nd issue diagnosed (within a week).

You appear to have no desire to have them fix the probblem, why would they spend their time and money on you when they will get nothing in return? The whole idea of the free check is for you to them have it easiest for them to fix any problems they find.

Ya that's basically it. Said free check up but I didn't know it came with strings attached.
They wanted to fix the car for 2k so I went to another "shop" and got a used transmission with 46k miles on it and had it installed for $750. 2k was way out of my price range and for 2k I can get a newer car.

I got the car fixed for $86. I had to buy new spark plug wires and had someone plug them in for a total of $86. If I knew it was the wires I would of bought them myself and installed them. The wires were 46 and the "labor" was 40. The car has a cover over the area where the spark plugs plug in but water still got in. The car still needs new spark plugs themselves, timing belt and a fuel filter. With the money I wasted on new wires I could of bought a timing belt.

The car basically drives just like before and runs good and has no other problems except those things I mentioned which is nothing but maintenance.

[QBridge]

This other transmission I got has some bolts on it that are rusted since it's been sitting around for a while. What can I put on them or the hole transmission to stop them from rusting further? I asked someone about WD40 and they said it wasn't a good idea and I agreed.

[Matra et Alpine]

This other transmission I got has some bolts on it that are rusted since it's been sitting around for a while. What can I put on them or the hole transmission to stop them from rusting further? I asked someone about WD40 and they said it wasn't a good idea and I agreed.

glad you're up and running.

THe ONLY problems with spraying a tranny bolt with WD40 is the risk of gettign it on the clutch. I'm presuming this is an auto and if not, just make sure it doesnt' get INTO the bellhousing. The next risk is that the penetration by the WD40 may enable the bolt to shake loose. VERY UNLIKELY as it shoudl have a spring washer fitted - and if it doesnt' just chekc the bolt tightness each day for the first week ( and that's me giving you LOADS of extra checks just for "safety" )

Give it a wire brush first to loosen the surface rust. Wipe it with a rag after to remove excess. Done.

But why worry ? Bolts will have rust on them on a 10+ year old car - or at least they do for us - VERY WET and lots of salt on the roads in winter in Scotland

If the bolts are INTERNAL, then again not a problem once the oil is trashing around with the transmission in use But a spray with WD40 now won't do any harm as long as you're replacing the oil before installation - which you shoudl ALWAYS do anyway. That's beign ULATRA-careful in case you sprayed enough WD40 to affect the oil mix - it woudl take about half a canful to make a difference - but hey I'm clearly under court-order (!) to fully inform of ALL risks no matter how minor

Why not drop a pic of the bolt here ? Knowing where it is can give advice on better treatment than WD40.

Putting WD40 into context ..... bike riders in Scotland spray ALL the engine, transmission and metalwork on their motorbike regularly over winter to protect it from corrosion !!!!!

[QBridge]

I don't have anything to take pics with. The transmission housing or case is fine but the bolts are rusted at the top. The bolts go in the transmission. They are part of it.

The wire brush is a good idea. I'll do that but I don't know about WD40. If it seeps in and causes internal damage I cant have another blown transmission. Maybe transmission oil should do the job? I'll put some on the bolts after I clean them and leave anything else out. Or maybe that grease they use. I forgot the name of it. Maybe the grease is a better idea since it wont wash away like transmission oil.

[nota]

You're right on the 'advice' but I DID give the caveat
Also it's false to say that HEIs fail because of a removed spark lead.

The charge circuit for the output drivers in ECUs are common so the risk is small that the build up of charge will cause problems only when ALL 4 leads are removed and then it is VERY slim that it will induce track breakdown as modern leads are high resistance.
Where did you get info that it will cause damage ??

I don't pretend to be an electrician. However I thought it common knowledge that various automotive electrical components (inc. coil, trigger sensor, ECU etc) can incur damage simply via disconnecting a plug lead while the ignition is on, thus creating an open circuit & inducing stray electrical fields. Damage may not immediately manifest and there are many webmentions of this, so I'm suprised you apparently consider the above false and recommend it be done

The risk from the spark discharge is also over-stated. It IS dangerous to us IF it finds a track across the chest with minimal resistance. Even putting a finger in the plug is only a risk if you have heart problem. Modern leads are high resistance for this too !!!!!

It was perhaps a little blase, agreed, but not anymore risk than taking a mis-firing car onto an open road !!

Let's put it in context. A mechanic I knew determined how well the comeptition ignition was firing by putting hsi finger IN the plug lead and cranking the engine. I've had a few belts over the years from everything from run-of-mill car to full works Quattros. You are over-stating the risk.

I agree I maybe shoudl have spent more words on the warning than I did, BUT you are over-quoting the risks and possibly generating inappropriate fears. Folks shoulnd't be scared of working on cars because of 'risks' - after all used oil is carcinogenic

Ok fine but it's fair to say that you have no idea if he (or any neophyte reading your post) has a weak heart, or is a person more susceptible to shock. And it's entirely likely he/they wouldn't know either. Or of what they were doing underhood. I've gotten a few zaps too but am not one to induce strangers to expose themselves to unnecessary risk nor can I see why it is inappropriate to warn of it

You're right; people shouldn't be scared of working on their cars. But they should also employ prudence, be aware & informed. So I don't promote bad practice or risky behaviour. This includes to lie under a jacked car, skol used motor oil or even sticking their dick (or any other appendage) into a high voltage automotive electrical system .. shock horror ..