Tidy. What are you using as a grommet for the door pull, or just the vinyl slit glued around the opening?
Never own more cars than you can keep charged batteries in...
thinking if the slit starts to look untidy i'll use a rubber firewall grommet. door strap itself still has to go on, got that in red 2" wide webbing
Andreas Preuninger, Manager of Porsche High Performance Cars: "Grandmas can use paddles. They aren't challenging."
Rubber firewall grommet is win. Nice job on a dime.
Never own more cars than you can keep charged batteries in...
You could also buy sheet CF for a few dollars more, if you want bling
Chief of Secret Police and CFO - Brotherhood of Jelly
No Mr. Craig, I expect you to die! On the inside. Of heartbreak. You emo bitch
Rear rotors reground to spec, rear brakes in. Front rotors were under spec and I ordered a pair of fronts, also painted rear calipers black.
"Horsepower sells motor cars, but torque wins motor races."
-Carrol Shelby
Just changed my front brake pads and rotors. Only bled the fronts. Went for a test drive and I hear a serious rubbing from what sounded like the front drivers side wheel. Initial brake bite is very slow and I need to nail the brakes to get good stopping power. I took a picture of what the front rotor looks like before, and after the test drive. Is this typical of initial brake in?
***edit***
Disaster averted and problem solved, kinda, the drivers side rear needed bleeding, bad, but I still cant get rid of the rubbing sound coming from what sounds like the front and rear. Ideas?
Last edited by Sledgehammer; 10-09-2011 at 06:49 PM.
"Horsepower sells motor cars, but torque wins motor races."
-Carrol Shelby
meow.
sounds nasty.
"A string is approximately nine long."
Egg Nogg 02-04-2005, 05:07 AM
Certain of the pad size & thickness? If those grooves are fresh scoring near the hat and weren't visible on the discs prior to installation, something is dragging. Check lateral runout first... with the wheel off spin by hand, you'll hear/see it. Sometimes, even new discs can be bad. Good luck, hope it's something simple.
Never own more cars than you can keep charged batteries in...
Don't have time to check before a 35 mile commute tomorrow. On the test drive, I went several times from 40-0 as fast as possible. Still rubbing while coasting though and the sound is greater turning to the right . This is my first time doing a brake job and it seems I f'd it up. Gunna bite the bullet and take it to Firestone or something tomorrow.
"Horsepower sells motor cars, but torque wins motor races."
-Carrol Shelby
Did you thouroughly clean the hubs before fitting the rotor ?
Possible you've trapped some crap behind it and it's not fitted "true"
Check the caliper pins aren't bent or worn ?
Do the pads move freely in their slots ? I've had that with EBC yellow where the protective coating makes them thick and too tight in the slots. A quick use of a file works fine
BUT, I think it looks like it just might be the edge of the pad line ?
In that case likely it's just the pad coating from manufacture.
Whose pads ??
"A woman without curves is like a road without bends, you might get to your destination quicker but the ride is boring as hell'
^^^ Does that retain heater boxes?
Never own more cars than you can keep charged batteries in...
yes i still have the heater boxes, i haven't been able to get a straight answer on whether removing them actually has any benefit?
so far as i can tell they only draw heat off the surface of the exhaust pipe and don't impede flow or anything like that.
fyi that's just the normal exhaust tips attached straight to the headers for laughs, whilst i clean the muffler (it is visible now with the rear valence under the bumper removed).
sounds terrible haha
Last edited by clutch-monkey; 10-11-2011 at 11:40 PM.
Andreas Preuninger, Manager of Porsche High Performance Cars: "Grandmas can use paddles. They aren't challenging."
Ahhh. Well, unless you need heat, stock manifolds weigh more... you need these :
Never own more cars than you can keep charged batteries in...
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