the FC is actually a better drag car as it is cheaper and its suspention is reletivly easily modified to a ford live axle. i is also a pretty good handling car thos and would be just as at home on a road coarse. the FD is actually a better hadling car, its actually just about as close as you can come to a real road race car as far as japanese sports carse come, it handles, brakes, accelerates as good or better than almost every car you can think of within reason. i would make an FD a road coarse car, but they can be modified to do good on the track also that is un questonable.RX7 - FC3S is prob more of a drift car then a track/quarter mile.
RX7 - FD3S is what ur looking for if ur going for quarter mile run's.
a 20b IS a good swap but when you take cost into account ($10k to get one in there and running properly) it really isnt worth it, sure you get a rotary with some torque but for less money you could have a V8 under the hood and more torque than you'd ever need. and the boxer 4? talk about a downgrade if your thinking about a 4 cyl may as well keep the 13b-rew more power and it will be just as reliable at a given power levelEnigne swap: i belive that a 20B or a Boxer 4 would be good enough for the FD.
not nessesary, unless you have money to blow or are trying to extract the absolut maimum performance out of a rotary(under 500hp isnt maximum performance )Lightened rotors
will not be nessesary for the mods you listedNew, stronger gearbox
actually the stock seals are just about the best you can get, the cheapest upgrades will put you pretty light in the pockets(personal experience), $1200 for a 2 peice set of 6 and all they will do is reduce wear on your housing at higher seal sping pressures, for a street application the stock seals and spris will seal fine and hold up to any amount of boost you can thro at them, the real killer of apex seals is detonation and not even the best set of seals will save ou motor if you ping it one good time. and i wouldnt worry about spending too much money on making a 1b-t fast, after about 350hp the dowels start to fail and you ave to swap in a 13b-rew to make anymore power reliablyIf you decide to run mid-high boost you should really invest in new apex seals.
i would not recomend a PP for the street, hell a bridgeport is pushing it as far as reliability goes. apex seal life is compramised with a PP and the compound they use to fill in the original side housig ports is not as durable as the rest of the housing, and water seal can be compramised with a bridgeport. a street port is called that for a reason.PP's, although they do eat through the gas due to the port size, can be fairly reliable, the housing are basically drilled through the side, and peripheral ports are shoved in. Depending on the thickness of the P port walls, the life of your engine will be comprimised. Thick walls=smaller port=less power and longer engine life.
unacceptable, it sounds mean granted but the idle alone should detour you, plus the added wear on your clutch from trying to tool around town like that...Also with a PP, you will find it hard to drive on the street. It will idle around 2000rpm. Though I've heard somewhere that PP's can be driven on the street easily...i'd like to know more about that...