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Thread: My E30 Drift Machine Project

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by McReis
    Yes. I Suggest you learn what makes a car drift. Like an LSD perhaps. otherwise all those mods worth nothing.
    Not even a car with 400bhp can drift whithout an LSD.

    A 325 with a LSD doesn't need gravel or rain. It does it on tarmac.

    But I don't think you'd like to make your road car a drift car, because drifting will demand too much from it, causing too much costs for a car you need to be running all the time.

    Were you really serious, or just kidding with us?
    both my mr2s, at 160bhp and 225bhp, drift beautifuly. The tail kicks out smoothly and happily, and I can control it quite well. Neither of them have LSDs.
    85 red Toyota MR2
    93 infiniti G20 (sold)
    86 mr2 show car

    UCP's most totally hardcore crazy MR2-or-anything-else-that-runs-on-4A-G-power fan. I rilly like MR2s

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    In the shed
    Posts
    9,941
    ^^^
    I dont have an LSD in my datto and i can slide it pretty well, a car without an LSD is just a lot harder to get sliding bescause its only a single wheel spinning. you just have to hit it with more oversteer and speed. Especially if its under-powered like mine.
    The Datto will rage again...

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    California
    Posts
    3,552
    Drifting is an unusual way to learn car control at the limit, but seemingly it's here to stay. I have a Japanese DVD, where they mention the drift-king-Tsuchiya and the drift bible.

    http://drifting.com/Drift_Bible.php
    "Racing improves the breed" ~Sochiro Honda

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Porto - Portugal
    Posts
    5,593
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Supra
    ^^^
    I dont have an LSD in my datto and i can slide it pretty well, a car without an LSD is just a lot harder to get sliding bescause its only a single wheel spinning. you just have to hit it with more oversteer and speed. Especially if its under-powered like mine.
    That's an absurd. What the LSD does is to keep ONE wheel spinning when the other as no traction at all. When you DON'T have a LSD, when the inside wheel looses traction the other one stops pushing. With a car without LSD, when it starts to drift it just looses all power. It only drifts while it's weight pushes it. So I can't believe no MR2 is drifting more than 2 or 3 seconds without LSD. Maybe it has one, only you don't know it does.
    Money can't buy you friends, but you do get a better class of enemy.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1
    those "drift" setups posted earlier are poor as.

    you want front wheel grip to steer (lower pressure), you want low profile tyres so they side walls dont fold over (more grip). an even weight distribution is easier to control and weight shift.

    as far as LSD's go i'd put it at the top of the list. a 2 way is the best for drift, while a 1.5 way will be the most streetable (and still driftable) LSD. the stock one will oonly be a 1 way.

    LSD's give you more control in the drift, if you have tried to drift without one i erge you to try again with one...and tell me its not 100% better. a 2 way LSD will enable you to brake drift easier, and shift lock (which you cant do with and open of 1 way diff)

    for a street car that car drift, the biggest sacrifice is ride comfort. dont worry too much about stripping the car and strengthening the chasis unless you plan to drift in the dry with stock power (as you will need more power in the dry and less weight). a stiff shock set-up (not sports but STIFF) is required for under powered cars, P2W lower then 130kw per ton.ish

    spring rates should match the shocks obviously, but the best set-up i have found is a 3/2 ratio front-rear. so for the 325, a 8kg/mm front spring and ~6kg/mm rear spring would be a good comprimise not too hard for street, not too soft for drift. and as low as you want (lower is hot :P )

    the beemers have a pretty good chasis to start with so not much needs to be done, better bushes and sway bars are always a good idea also. keep in mind that you should do it evenly (same ratio upgrade F-R), as stiffer sway bars/strut braces will make the car handle like it hase stiffer springs. throwing out the balance.

    hope something i wrote mad sense and helps

    -dan

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,200
    First thing you do is learn how all components of the suspension system work.

    Next learn how changes to each component will effect the car.

    After that learn how to combine changes to several components and what compound effects that combined changes can do.

    Learn by reading everything you can about the subject, talking to professionals that work with suspension system components and remember to remain objective and critical of your sources.

    Once you do all that you will be able to decide what parts you need and thats when you go here:

    UUC Motorwerks * Ultimate Performance Fine-Tuning

    They have almost eveything you might need.

    As to what parts are important a quality 2 way LSD should be at the top of your list as well as an upgraded clutch and a good shortshift.
    Power, whether measured as HP, PS, or KW is what accelerates cars and gets it up to top speed. Power also determines how far you take a wall when you hit it
    Engine torque is an illusion.

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